Heating seedlings in a cold room
Loren Jorgenson
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
Featured Answer
Comments (11)
daninthedirt (USDA 9a, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoleahikesgardenspdx
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoRelated Discussions
cold frame for seedlings?
Comments (3)Yes, ideally the soil in a cold frame will be warm enough to keep the seedlings cozy if the temp should drop to freezing. Some people have additional elaborate insulation below the soil line to further concentrate the heat. But if your cold frame is on your deck, it should be easy enough to throw some blankets or quilts over it if the temperature is marginal, or even move the seedlings back inside for the night if you're afraid of a hard freeze. You could also put in some plastic jugs of really hot water to bring up the heat before you cover up. But don't forget to open the top and provide ventilation for sunny days, the temps can rise quickly in an enclosed area. You might want to put a thermometer in and check it a few times a day to see what temperature extremes you'll need to regulate....See MoreIs RF heating the answer to my cold room?
Comments (1)Yes you can put radiant under hardwood (or carpet or tile or...). We did using Zmesh from Heatizon. I think the bigger problem is the slab. Engineered HW would be better for over concrete. You don't say how high your ceilings are or whether you already have a heat source in that room. We chose to install the electric radiant system because we have a very open plan with 26' ceilings. Forced air w/vents at the top of the wall was completely impractical. We installed it as part of a huge remodel and we specifically designed the system so the transformers would be hidden in a mechanical room. You might want to do some research on electric radiant systems and the feasibility of installing it in that room considering what the electrical and mechanical needs are. Wanting to install it under hardwood shouldn't be your deterrant....See Moreroom hot when heat is running, cold when not
Comments (6)Other than simply location of the thermostat, it sounds more like you have too bid a swing temperature? Some thermostats have a setting that determines how narrow or wide the range can be- for instance, if you set the temp to 70, it will heat up to 72, turn off, then cool down to 68 before it goes back on. That is a 2 degree swing (above and below) giving your room a FOUR degree difference! If it were one degree swing, the difference would be 69-71 for a 70 degree setting. I personally find even a 1 degree swing noticeable as I tend to be cold. It is normal that you would totally sense a different comfort level with a wider swing. The smaller the swing, the more your system will cycle on and off to maintain the tighter temp range. Some thermostats are only one setting, though, so you have to look at the manual for yours. I think that is the most likely thing, but I am by far no expert. and yes, the celing fans help keep the hot air off the ceiling during winter when run in reverse on slow- especially good for those vaulted ceilings....See MoreInsulation of Cold/Heat in Room
Comments (8)We all know the windows are the culprit. Got to do something about them. Windows that large are costly to replace with something that stops heat and cold. That is the best option of course, but also the most expensive. For winter, my recommendation is climateseal interior storm windows. I am not a paid spokesperson, but I have them in my house and they very much help in winter. I find myself recommending them because I would prefer they stay in business if I move I can get them in my next house. They are significantly less in terms of cost to the best performing windows you would need. For extra large windows you may want to have a partition in the middle so they are easier to remove and clean. Here are some pictures. These are not cold to the touch, and when I took the one off I could for sure feel the cold. They magnetically seal to the metal L channels you install. All you need is a tinsnips, small drill bit, pan head screws, and caulking to install the channels. I do not know if these work well in summer for heat. I have the thermal series and take them off in the summer, but they do have a preservation and pro series. I am thinking the pro series combines preservation and thermal benefits. Ballpark guesses for quotes would be around 3-4k for the storm windows vs 10k for new good windows plus 10k more for installation. http://www.climateseal.com/ Some other options for summer would be heat control window film, awnings, and pulling the curtains closed....See MoreLoren Jorgenson
2 years agoLoren Jorgenson
2 years agoAnna (6B/7A in MD)
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agodaninthedirt (USDA 9a, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoAnna (6B/7A in MD)
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agodaninthedirt (USDA 9a, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoDonna R
2 years ago
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