"Any ideas?"

Thanks. The former owner of the house probably didn’t clean it for 15 years. It took me an hour to clean the grates with a brillo pad. If you’d like to bring that over and use it, DM me and I’ll give you the address.

I don't find a match for KEB1100YWH. I find it with letter I in 4th position. KEBI100YWH ... with a number 0, 1, 2, or 3 after the H. The trailing number is the engineering revision, which is relevant to identifying correct replacement parts ... although majority of parts are discontinued. Y indicates 1992 model-year. Your unit could be a bit less in age depending how long the model was produced. The serial number is coded for the year and week of production if you're interested.

The latch won't align to lock if the door isn't closed correctly. Does the door appear to be seated correctly on the hinges? Oven doors are usually removable, although some can be tricky to do that correctly with spring-loaded hinges involved.

Thanks. 1992 sounds about right, that was around the time a previous owner did a bunch of renovations. I’ll have to take a closer look at the hinges, there is stuff cooking in there right now. You are correct, that is an I that looks like a 1.

Serial indicates 21st week (May 18-22) of 1992. E.C.N is the engineering change, separated from the model on this tag layout. 0, so it's an original issue.

Your latch is manual per the parts diagram ... meaning you move the lever by hand to latch/unlatch. It's probably jammed in some way if the door seems to be seated properly but it won't go to latched position. Or, is the lever moving to latched position but the control isn't recognizing the status? If that's the case then the switch that registers the position may be failed or stuck from years of non-use. If the lever is moving fully, do you hear a faint click from the switch?

This link goes to photos of the lock mechanism (without the lever that is moved to engage it, which is a separate part). Check the last photo which is the parts diagram. It shows a 2nd switch #4 which also would be related to sensing the lock position. Notice that the replacement lock has a switch attached plus two extras, which may be different versions of #4 for different oven models.

P/N 814262 Door Latch

There's a used one on eBay under a different P/N 3183800. Includes the hand-lever and mounted switch but not the #4 switch. (The newer discontinued 814262 is a substitution for 3183800 -- see the Cross Reference Information for the linked item).

There is a latch hook sticking out of the oven that should engage with an opening in the door, but there is no lever of any kind that I can see anywhere that would be used to move it. Maybe it’s broken off? Wouldn’t surprise me, nothing in this house that broke or wore out over the past 15 years was repaired. Maybe it’s time for a call to a repair person. Or better yet, a new oven.

@dadoes: "Serial indicates 21st week (May 18-22) of 1992."

I'd wait until the 21st week of 2022, celebrate the oven's 20th birthday by rechristening it with a large bottle of champagne, and hope the impact releases any gummed-up lever, latch or switch thereby allowing the self-clean to function again. If that didn't work I'd use the large dent the bottle created in the oven door as an excuse to buy a new oven.

Also ... so you're aware ... there were some issues in the past with KA & WP wall ovens overheating during self-clean and blowing a safety thermal fuse due to insufficient airflow via the cooling fan in some installation situations. Make sure the airflow vents aren't obstructed, and that the door gasket isn't damaged which could cause hot air from the cavity to be pulled into the vent grill. I have a copy of a service bulletin on the issue. It references "all WP and KA single and double built-in ovens prior to serial code XW49 (Dec 2008) and all KA 24" built-in ovens." A list of model number is included but yours is not specifically stated, although it is in the referenced production date range. I'm not telling you not to run self-clean ... but wanted you to be fully informed to make your own decision. The fix is to replace the cooling blower (upper oven only on a double-oven unit) with a revised blower that runs at a higher RPM. The bulletin is 10+ years ago.

You guys rock! There is a little panel that looks like a piece of trim that lifts up and there it is! The lever!! Holy carp!! Thanks so much for all of your help, including the math-challenged (it’s going on 30 years old).

My parents have a Whirlpool double wall oven that is on the service bulletin model list. It hasn't had that failure or the blower upgrade, but they've run self-clean only once. Mom rarely bakes foods that splatter, mostly cakes, cookies, etc.