Woody plants often die from the top down, but I fail to see the cause for this particular problem with the information given. I'll typically look to the root system, however, on both containerized plants and those planted in situ. Lots and lots of things can go wrong down there with the soil system, the root system, and the soil/root system. Die back is one of the first signs of soil compaction, poor oxygen content, flooding, root damage, etc. in soil planted trees, by the way. I'm not saying that your tree hasn't suffered from cold damage, but that it could be almost anything. We just haven't heard enough information. Hey, it could even be that the tree came to you with dead tissue, and it's just taken this long for it to turn black. The reptile bark is a good option for the bark fines so often talked about on this forum and others. Usually made from fir, I believe, and a good size for this purpose. Bagged potting mixes almost always need to be amended with something to make them decent (ALMOST) and that bark is a good choice. By the, just do you know...the sealing of any woody plant after pruning is not recommended on large or small shrubs or trees.. Such a practice can actually impede the natural 'healing' going on within the tissues. It was thought at one time that gunk needed to be applied to a pruning cut in order to prevent the tree from leaking all over the place (ha) and also to prevent disease organisms from entering the tree. We apply dressings to people, not trees. We leak when we are cut and our wounds need to be covered with something in order to keep the good stuff in and the bad stuff out. Trees simply don't work that way...and it's a good thing. Best to know where to make a proper cut and to allow it to heal in a natural manner. We know better now. There ARE exceptions, but they are unusual and specific. And don't EVER expect good advice from the folks at Home Depot or Lowes'. ;-( (Here's an old bad saying: "I wanted to be a tree surgeon but I couldn't stand the sight of sap.") P.S. I'll bet that if you return to the Home Depot in spring that you can find some nice looking Meyer Lemon trees there. Just in case you want to add to your collection.

Here also is explantion of sorts about product. http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/pp/resourceguide/mfs/07kaolin.php Be careful useing it as there are "human concerns" when applying it as stated on the web page. As for me this year with just a few plants i just slowly introduced them to sun now all is fine. My dormant trees go into full sun as they yet to have leaves at that stage and when they do come out there are no ill effects. Martin

Generally speaking - and I'm no expert here, just have a few houseplants and have been learning a lot from this forum - some plants such as the softer leaves ones will show their displeasure and happiness quite quickly by wilting or perking up quite quickly. But I think some of the thicker leaved firmer plants can look ok for some time even when declining (more water reserves, stronger leaf structure,etc), for example sansevieria (snake plants), so maybe rubber plants are like this too. What I'm trying to say is it may have been going downhill for longer than the two weeks of obvious symptoms. Plus it's possible really high numbers of fungus gnat larvae could have munched on the really fine feeder roots. Although I thought the roots looked good overall. I don't know about the white bugs, you'd need to be sure what they were to know if they damaged it. And the (necessary) repotting was another stress on the plant. Many factors to consider, playing plant detective. It may well be the additive effect of several things. You've had lots of good advice from the experienced people above, on light and soils etc. Personally I would now put it in a bright warm draft-free spot inside, and wait. Don't let the roots dry right out while they're recovering but don't let the soil stay damp either. To achieve this, try using a spray bottle of water on a gentle jet to target where the pruned rootball is, and at the times when you do water more thoroughly leave the pot tilted at 45 degrees (even 30 degrees will help) for 15-20 minutes afterwards and then sit it on towels or paper pushed up against the drain holes for a couple hours. This isn't to remove all the water you just put in, it is to reduce the saturated layer that occurs at the bottom, the "perched water table" (yes, it has a name) Dont fertilise until you see new leaves growing and don't sunburn it by putting it in direct sunshine outside if it's not used to it. Good luck!

I moved into a new home with a mango tree so I'm not sure how old is the tree. I have some green and yellow small mangos but a lot of them are dropping. Also it now has some brown leaves and some green leaves with brown ripped ends. I'm new to this and so confused with all the different recommendations online. Does the tree have a disease? Should I fertalize or water and how much/ how often? Thanks in advance