Another Gritty Dirt Post…
Dani ♥️ Succulents
2 years ago
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bragu_DSM 5
2 years agoDani ♥️ Succulents
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Al's potting mixes - another 'will this work' post
Comments (11)Wow, dickiefickle, you sound pissed! :-( I didn't mean to offend anyone by asking about this product, nor was I dismissing Blake's posts. He stated that in his experience Bentonite was not a baked product, but, just from what Amturf claims for their product, I would think that they must process it in some way so that it maintains its integrity like Turface does, thus my response to his posts. I am not sure what you meant by Does say anything about in "CONTAINER GARDENING " but I will try to explain what I meant by my response. Amturf describes their product as a soil conditioner for improving sand and clay soils, for increasing drainage in heavy soils, etc. Obviously, adding pure uncalcined/unprocessed clay to clay soil or to sandy soil will neither improve the soil nor increase drainage. Their PDF document goes on to say it IS for use in containers, that it DOESN'T degrade, as in, presumably, turning into a sticky mass of clay (or just disintegrating.) As someone whose soil is clay, I can assure you that if it did turn into the sticky mass that wet clay soil can become, it is very far indeed from their descripion of a LOOSE rich growing medium! If it blocks the drain hole in the container, how can they claim that it improves drainage? Turface is 100% clay...my point was that I believe the bentonite clay in Amturf must be processed (calcined??) in some way, as was done with the clay in Turface, so it will not degrade. All I have to go on is how Amturf advertises their product, as no one with experience with the soil conditioner seems to have posted on the Internet (maybe there's a reason for that!!) nor have I found anything on GW about this particular soil conditioner. My last statement was that I would probably need to buy the product and put it through the freezer test, as was done for NAPA Floor Dry and other Turface substitues, to see if it would actually work. So, when I am about to run out of my current supply of NAPA Floor Dry, I will do just that. Anyone have any comments about the other part of my "will this work" post? Will the pine bark mulch I found at the nursery work for the 5:1:1 mix or is it too composted, or...? Holly Here is a link that might be useful: Amturf usage instructions...See MoreWho can give me the dirt on dirt?
Comments (4)Hi, Zusya. I left this post on another thread recently. You may find some guidance in it that will help you decide what an appropriate soil is and/or what ingredients are/are not appropriate in soils: Drainage and aeration go hand in hand and share a linear relationship (as one increases, so does the other). There are two very important considerations in deciding whether a soil is appropriate or not. How well your soils drain, and how long they will last. How well they drain is simply a product of the size of the particles in the soil. The larger the particles, the larger the air spaces and the less water held between particles and the better the soil drains. Also, the more internal porosity in each particle, the more water it holds inside the particle. So coarse and porous particles like Turface and pine bark serve extra duty - they provide large macro-pores in soil by virtue of their size, and they increase water-holding ability by virtue of their tremendous internal porosity. Fine particles, like builders sand, compost, worm castings, topsoil - reduce aeration, increase water retention, and support an increasingly high "perched water table" (the soggy layer of soils that occurs at the bottom of the container) - and all three are something to avoid. Large particles, like pine bark, perlite, Turface, and other mineral products in the 1//16-1/8 inch sizes are excellent amendments that increase drainage, reduce water retention, and improve durability of soils. "How long soils will last", which is the same thing as saying "how long soils will continue to drain well" is a function of what they are made from. Soils that are predominantly peat, or peat/sand mixes shouldn't be expected to last for more than a growing season w/o some compromise in plant vitality. Soil longevity continues to increase as a higher % of long-lasting ingredients is used to make it. Pine bark breaks down at approx 1/4-1/5 the rate of peat, so a bark based soil with a fractional amount of peat and perlite will remain productive and conducive to good plant vitality for at least 4 times as long as a peat-based soil. A soil that's high in mineral content (like Turface/perlite/crushed granite/others) will increase soil longevity even further - to the point where soils will last (drain well and provide continued total porosity above 50%) for longer than it takes the plant to become so root-bound it must be repotted or potted-up to preserve vitality. If you want to read more extensively about soils, try the link below for a discussion about houseplant soils, or this one about the physics of water movement/retention in soils. Al Here is a link that might be useful: Click on me to review a discussion about houseplant soils...See MoreThe dirt on dirt?
Comments (2)Mo, I don't know exactly what they mean by black topsoil, and I wouldn't buy anything without looking at it first. We tried to buy a load of "sandy loam" once and what that company brought was pure sand. Well, not pure sand exactly. It was pure sand plus a billion weed seeds. So, I'd ask to be shown what the black topsoil looks like before I decided whether or not to buy it and I'd pick up a handful and feel it. Does it feel gritty like it has some sand in it? Can you see or smell any humus in it? (Probably not, though it would be nice.) Squeeze a handful of that black topsoil together in your hand and see if it holds together in a clump. That would indicate a somewhat high percentage of clay most of the time. Actually, if it had a little clay that might be a good thing because clay normally is high in nutrients and also helps sandier soils hold water. The sandy loam you find unremarkable probably has quite a bit more sand than loam. If you add lots of organic matter to it, even just in the form of mulch that breaks down into compost over the years, it will slowly improve that sandy loam a lot. Pure sand is a whole lot harder to improve than sandy loam so I wouldn't want to get a whole load of really sandy, loam-free stuff unless I was wanting to xeriscape with sand-loving plants that need perfect drainage. Is your native soil sand or sandy loam? Finally, because it is on the west of the house, having clay in it actually would help up to a point as long as it isn't too much clay. So I am kinda hoping the black topsoil has some useful percentage of clay in it. If you put sand or sandy loam on the west side of the house, the plants you grow there will have to be really tough to handle fast-draining sand or sandy loam in combination with the western exposure's summer heat and intense sunlight. If it were me, I'd want a good sandy-clayey loam in that area because it would hold water longer than a sandy loam. As much as I hate my dense red clay, plants grow better in it than they do in the narrow band of sandy soil that cuts across the property near the edge of the garden. I can add organic matter to the clay and turn it into a great growing medium even though it doesn't drain as well as I like, but with the band of sandy-silty soil, no matter how much organic matter I add to it, it never seems to improve nearly as much and it still drains too quickly. If you click on the attacked link and go to the paragraph that starts with the words "Soil porosity", you'll find great definitions of sandy soil, loamy soil, etc. Reading those will tell you what you have a right to expect in a purchased soil product. However, soil companies call all sorts of stuff 'sandy loam' and often what they are selling has a very high sand content. Anybody can call just about anything they want 'topsoil' so you have to look at it first to see if it is good stuff or junk. A whole lot of junk gets sold to unsuspecting buyers. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Soil Primer...See MoreAnother repetitive gritty mix question-(sorry)
Comments (13)Cory, As far as citrus goes I have 7 right now and two more on the way. They are little right now ranging from 4 inches to almost two feet. I did get bit by the citrus bug but I am trying to keep it to 10, at least until I become a bit more experienced and can keep them happy year round. I don't know what else loves the gritty mix but I also have two dwarf pomegranates and a ton of houseplants (pothos, philodendrons, dracaenas, spathaphyllum, hedara helix, spider plant, fiddle leaf ficus, and others), some cacti, and succulents(jade, many aloes, tons of sansevierias) and one agave. Amazon does have the 32 oz size of foliage pro for $20 and the one local nursery I haven't called yet is running a 30% off fertilizer sale until the four so I will see if they carry it. My apartment is on the ground floor and I can store things in a space behind my apt but you are probably right about testing it out. I do live in a dry windy climate and donot have the ability to use an irrigation system. My tomatoes get very thirsty during the summer and they are in a pretty water retentive mix. I would also have to bring them in during the winter and while my windows are fantastic light wise, I may have to upgrade my current stands to hold heavier plants. Good point about checking the sieve screen size, I had not thought of that. What size screens are recommended? I haven't even begun to find better pots yet. They are in the standard black nursery pots still. I was planning on painting them white, or in the very least taping either foil or white paper around them(I did so last year for veggies with success) but painting them half white is a fantastic idea. I am in a superb location for beautiful hand crafted pottery and Craigslist is great to find nearly new but cheaper great pots for when they need bigger sizes. I will look out for plastic pots with a more uniform size for short term, thanks for that tip. I am excited for all aspects of their growth. I get super excited for new growth on anything, kinda like when you're first in love and can't stop smiling about it. I keep bringing the tiniest bud to my family's attention and they just don't get how awesome it is. Hopefully they will share my enthusiasm when flowers bloom or at the very latest when we get to eat the fruit. I will try to get some pictures to share and will probably be pretty active here as I am learning and new questions come up. :)...See Morerobinswfl
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoDani ♥️ Succulents
2 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
2 years agorobinswfl
2 years agoDani ♥️ Succulents
2 years agoDani ♥️ Succulents
2 years agoDani ♥️ Succulents
2 years agoDani ♥️ Succulents
2 years agorobinswfl
2 years ago
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