Finishing Hardwood Flooring Between Two Square Ends
Hi I have a flooring project coming up and I have a burning question which I am not sure I know the answer to.
There will be a 3/4 inch thick piece of granite in front of the fireplace about 68 inch wide, on the other end of the floor there is transitional nosing. So between transitional nosing and the granite slab I will have two suqare end (not sure if this is the right terminology) where wood planks needs to finish flush.
I am not sure about the order in which granite, wood planks and transitional nosing will go in.
I have an experience installing hardwood floors but the other end of it was always finished in the wall where wood gets covered with shoe molding.
You can see the 2nd picture where I have the wood installed next to piece of marble but again the other end of it was finishing in the wall not on a transitional nosing. So I am kind of confused to what is my best course of action here.
Comments (9)
jony
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Hardwood flooring - merging two floors?
Comments (3)http://www.pinterest.com/pin/210754457533698010/ If the columns are landing in the middle of that bare spot, it makes sense to highlight it with flooring running between the columns. Use boards as close as possible to the original floor width and have them flush with the old floor. Stain as close as possible to the existing colors and the difference in grain direction will make it blend in. Feathering in flooring across that spot is possible - IF you have matching flooring and can remove boards in an erratic pattern....See Morehelp me decide between solid/engineered hardwood floors
Comments (20)You can get an engineered floor that is as good if not better than a solid product. We produce solid unfinished flooring but we also produce unfinished engineered flooring as well. Solid flooring typically has a 1/4" (6mm) of "sandable" or "usable" surface. Basically after you get 1/4" deep you'll hit the nail heads and so you can't sand below that point. Our engineered unfinished product has a 5mm wear layer. However, the engineered product is already pre-sanded to 80g which means once installed the amount of sanding that takes place is minimal. On a solid floor, most contractors will need to do a rough sanding to get the floor even, then one or two more cuts to get it smooth. Even if you have a very talented sander he is going to take 1/32 off in his sanding on the solid floor. That equates to roughly 3/100 which is nearly the difference between the 6mm and 5mm usable surfaces we began with. So in essence, you are getting very close to the same "usable" surface. Not to mention the engineered is more stable, will keep you from having to install a subfloor as it can be glued directly to concrete, eliminates transition issues between hardwood and tile or carpet AND should take less time to install. My two cents. Sam @ Real Wood Floors realwoodfloors.com...See Moreengineered hardwood floor over old hardwood floor
Comments (14)You need to do a little more archeological digging still. You need to know the whole construction of the floor before you can decide how best to install something new. I'd take up that plywood piece in the kitchen and see what's under it. It's higher than the surrounding floor, so needs to go. You should also be able to see from there what subfloor is under the original kitchen hardwood. It's too bad the space under your entryway is finished, but I'd still do some exploring from below to see what's under there, and to figure out the fix to stop it from squeaking. Is it drywall below or a drop ceiling? I know it probably seems like a pain to tear out drywall, but if you cut out a clean patch, like 2' x the width of the joists, it'll be relatively simple to repair. Just make sure to cut it down the center of the joists so that there's room to screw the patch piece to it later. Cut the hole under the area that squeaks the most, if you can. Have someone walk on and watch the floor from below to see what's moving. It might be as simple as pounding in a couple shims from below, or face-nailing a loose board from above. You want to find out what's underneath the hardwood. It might be laid directly on the floor joists, or there might be 10" wide boards that the hardwood is nailed to. Another thought is to take out a board in the hallway, since that's not original and you want to replace it. See what the subfloor is there. I am a bit puzzled at why, when you've stripped the kitchen down to the original hardwood, it's still higher than the hallway floor. Is your current surface perhaps not the original kitchen hardwood? Peeling back the plywood area will help determine that. BTW, I haven't heard of that stop squeaking product you linked to, so can't offer any personal opinion. And don't pour self-leveling compound over top of hardwood. It needs to go over plywood....See MoreQuestion about sanding and finishing pre-finished hardwood floor
Comments (19)I think the misinformation was about screening and recoating a site finished and doing a board replacement. On site finished if you have a problem its much harder to do a single board replacement and have it blend. Most times you would have to resand the entrire floor to make it look good. With factory fiished a single board could be replaced without resanding adjoining areas. Either could be screened and recoated without sanding. Comments about factory finishes scratching are sometimes due to the fact that with multi coat products the almunium oxide is left off the top coat. It tends to look milky and the idea is to make the top coat easy to repair when scratches occur so its often pure urethane with the AO below the top coat....See More
PROG & S Floor Service
2 years ago
PROjony
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoG & S Floor Service Thanks for the response those are helpful and bring some unforseen thing in to light ahead of time. Reading your comment making rethink in which direction I should laydown my floor.
attached is the layout of my current space. Previously I wanted to lay down the floor from front window to patio door, in that direction. Which I think can help me avoid having to use router tool. I will just need to make sure edge of grinte is 5 inch multiple away of transitiional nosing. 5 inches & half wide nosing lets me do that. Not sure if that would be too wide?
But then I watched a video where this designer girl recommended laying floor towards fireplace, which I am also curious about what you guys think of?
What direction would you run the flooring in, if it were you.
jony
2 years ago- PRO
G & S Floor Service
2 years ago jony
2 years agojony
last yearin the end I finished the nosing at the very end. Started from fireplace. I just made sure I was running square. Had to work with an 1 inch strip at then end also routed it out to make things fit together.
I applied a lot of thing I learned in this thread on the project so thanks a lot you guys. Maybe not in exact order but it helped a ton.
Attached are pics.
Uptown Floors