Thanks to all who have posted, this is good information. I had a general contractor at the house today to walk through so he can give me a bid on our total renovation (WHY is it like pulling teeth to get GCs to schedule walkthoughs so they can generate a bid??? /rant) Anyway I asked him specifically about this, and he said that inspectors in my town are generally good about working with homeowners when there are tricky outlet placements. He thought that given the configuration of the sink & dishwasher, an inspector would be ok with plugmold under each of the upper cabinets, and nothing on the counter or cabinet face. He said that worst case we could create 2 finished panels for in front of the sink, stick the outlet there until the final inspection, and then remove it and put the 2nd panel in its place. Thanks also for pointing out the air switch option. I'm not sure we really need a disposal but DH is still considering it.

I just had the same setup. What I would do is put a wire nut on the red or orange, whichever one is switched. Then I would install the GFCI receptacle. Then I purchased the following from garbage disposal switch from amazon - http://www.amazon.com/InSinkErator-STS-SO-Single-Outlet-Buttons/dp/B001DELK2Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1399472279&sr=8-1&keywords=garbage+disposal+switch It did require me to put a hole in my sink since I did not have any extras.... It works great... You could then remove the switch - put a wire nut on the end and tape it good. then put a blank in there. You could always replace the breaker with a GFCI breaker.

An outlet under the sink for the garbage disposal doesn't count. Usually when an outlet is required by code it has to be within 12" of the counter surface because the a main point of the code for kitchen outlets is to put outlets close enough for short appliance cords to be plugged in without extension cords. The actual statement in code is fairly brief and different localities interpret it differently. Yours may apply the same 24" that they use for sinks on wall counters (which would make sense for the same reason). If you doubt that, you could ask the architect or your GC to contact the local code department to check. We were initially told that the outlets we wanted on the corner of our island under the overhang wouldn't count because outlets under an overhang of more than 12" don't, but that didn't make sense since the outlet would be much less than 12" from the side of the overhang. He checked and the county code guy said it was fine. We put one on a panel in front of our prep sink - the one that could otherwise be a tip out. No change for the storage on the cabinets needed.

I never use my colander or wood cutting board. Plastic goes in the dishwasher, but wood does not. My workstation extras are in the garage gathering dust. Here is an idea... Most people do not use both double ovens except for once or twice a year. You could skip the double oven and use a 6 burner stove/oven with no drawers below. Put a microwave drawer to the left or right of the stove/oven and your deep pots and pans drawers on the other side. You may want to consider a different vent hood so you have cabinet space above the stove. I would hate to clean that open vent hood and its chimney pipe all the way to the ceiling and on a ladder with my bad back. I love the look of your vent hood plans, but I am too practical (or lazy?). Move refrigerator over a little to create a tall 24" deep cabinet for a vacuum or broom or cleaning supplies, large kitchen items... The other side of refrigerator could also be 24" deep and hold your food items. (No countertop.) You could use a counter depth refrigerator. I love mine because it is shallower and I don't lose stuff in there. You already have a water line there because of your washer so your ice maker can get connected. The cabinets on the dining room wall could be tall with no countertop or you could move the sink and dishwasher there. I like an island with nothing on it so I would hate a sink on my island. The island could be moved back where it does not begin until the corner. That means you do not have dead space. The dishwasher and sink could go on the island with bar stools or regular chairs right before you get to the light switches and the exterior door. I have very little countertop space in my kitchen because it would be full of crap. I have landing areas for hot things from the oven and the rangetop, for refrigerator things, and for dishwasher things. I have a raised dishwasher which opens up at waist level. Easier on my back. Mixers, food processors, Dutch ovens, Instant Pot, electric can opener, and other large items go in 24" deep cabinets. I have to move my mixer, etc to the island to use them, but that is good exercise since my mixer weighs 25 lbs. If money grew on trees, I would do this... ... Move the breakfast room and roof line back 4-5 ft to be even with the new living room? The two corner walls are load bearing so you would have a 4-5 ft wall between the living room and breakfast room and you would lose the living room door to the deck. Upside down L shape. The breakfast room door would be at the end near the railing. That gives you 4-5 ft more space and a view of the living room. You could put the sink and dishwasher on the deck wall and have an island which faces the new living room. Seating at the island could be with bar stools, or that part of the island could be lower, and regular chairs could be used. Keep the tall windows because of the wonderful light coming in, and you still have a walkway to the exterior door to the deck. You are so lucky your house is giving you many options. Most kitchens don't have closets and laundry areas that you can remove. I can't wait to see what you decide to do. I know it will be amazing.