To take murky's post a bit further. 5/16th is indeed the recommended size for attracting Mason Orchard Bees. The depth of the hole is somewhat important. Too shallow a hole and you may get nests consisting mostly of male bees and it's the females who are the pollenatin' machines. Also, the experts recommend drilling the holes with a percision drill bit. I think it's called a pilot point bit. It makes a very smooth hole which the bees seem to prefer. Final point. These nesting blocks need to be anchored. If they move around, the bees will not use them. A lot of people recommend east facing orientation. And also you need to have a supply of mud around for them to use to build their nests. The best things about these lovely little solitary bees are they are superior pollenators, non-agressive, and will work in colder, drearier weather than regular honey bees, highly desirably for things like cherries, apricots and other early bloomers. Don

Part of the natural growth habit of all plants in the mulberry family (Moraceae), which includes the genus Ficus, is the genetic tendency toward a successive increase in leaf size on each branch as the leaves appear. IOW, at maturity, the leaves toward the ends of branches will be larger than leaves closer to the trunk or the next lower order branch; this, not withstanding the effects of other cultural factors that tend to decrease leaf size. Among the things that cause smaller leaves are very bright light, root congestion, poor root health, and nutritional limitations. Curled/wavy leaf margins in plants recently acquired are usually the result of too much light during the finishing stages (at the nursery) before the plants reach market. If the wavy margins are currently appearing in new growth, it's likely something nutritional; however, nutritional deficiencies can be caused by cultural influences. Common issues include - saturated soil can lead to the plant's inability to take up enough Ca(lcium), an excess of Fe (iron) can cause a Mn (manganese) (antagonistic) deficiency, and a soil solution with a pH too high/low can cause either deficiencies or toxicities of certain nutrients that can cause malformation of leaves. In cases where it's unlikely anyone will be able to accurately diagnose what you have going on, it's almost always helpful to review the basic cultural conditions you're providing to make sure you're not asking the plant to deal with cultural conditions at/near the limits it's genetically programmed to tolerate. A very large fraction (>85%) of the plants we most commonly grow as houseplants all want pretty much the same thing in terms of cultural conditions with very little variation. A fast draining, well-aerated medium (a key element); plenty of light, but not too much; temps in the 68-78* range; no cold drafts; a damp medium (never wet or soggy); and a fertilizer program that doesn't vary much in the ratio at which the nutrients are provided, but does vary somewhat in the concentration of the nutrient solution. Getting the soil right makes nutritional supplementation a snap, and maintaining the plant's root system in a high state of vitality, which is, of course, a prerequisite to maintaining the entire organism in good health. The link takes you to a Basic Overview of growing houseplants in containers. I wrote it to help others avoid all of the pitfalls that commonly befall all hobby growers at some point on the path to green thumb status. If you contrast what it suggests against what you're currently doing, some things might jump out at you and be useful in formulating questions, the answers to which might ultimately provide resolution. Al

I purchased the foam from Frank's Nursery ($8). I had a choice between the standard white and a green foam, I chose the green (12W x 36L x 2 thick). Originally I purchased a floral foam, thinking it would be easier to construct, but it just kept flaking apart and would NOT be right for the tank; even if above the water level. After cutting out the pieces I wanted, I used a knife to bevel (or 45 degree) the edges to make it look more natural. I also used my fingers to "smush" sharp edges I did not like. Next I used a product made for sealing foam, in order to make it smooth and paintable ($3.50 @ Hobby Lobby). I mixed a regular acrylic paint, found in the craft sections of most stores(.40c each bottle) with the special foam sealer to start a base coat. I was leary of using some of the "all-in-one" paints because I could not figure out if they would be toxic, and like you, NOBODY knew. I also kept a cup of water to dip the paint brush in to dilute the mixture; I didn't want to see any brush strokes on the foam after it dried. That's where I stopped yeterday. Originally, I was going to slather on silicone (non- toxic) over the entire surface of the foam in order to seal it and make it safe for the tank. However, when I read that someone was using epoxy, I started re-thinking my game plan. I think I will check out the epoxy; I saw some at Menards. Any particular brand? EVERYTHING I have done so far has been improvisation. I have found other websites that make mention of using foam, but NO ONE has actually explained in detail how to go about painting and preparing the foam for a tank. I LOVE the way the foam is turning out. I have been able to custom design the waterfall and shape everything to my liking. I also love that it does not add any weight. I already have quite a bit of a sand substrate from when I had discus and I have also added lots of large rocks to shore up a "bank" to creat an entry/exit point to the water. I am anxious to finish, as this tank has been sitting for almost a year! I have been very cautious and nervous as to what products I use because I know that amphibians' skin will "absorb" toxins in their environment. As far as mixing inhabitants, well I'm excited to hear yours has been successful! I feel that since my tank is on the larger size, it should be able to handle a few more inhabitants than just a couple fire bellied toads. On a final note, I've posted pictures on other message boards I'm involved in and was wondering if anyone here uses snapfish? Can I post pictures from snapfish? I'd like to share my progress so far...

I haven't raised many cecropias, so others can give you better information, but I know all about luna moth cocoons! They scratch in the same spot on the inside of the cocoon for a little while (30 minutes?) all the while exuding a little (or a lot, sometimes) of an enzyme they use to break down the cocoon. All that scratching and exuding makes a hole in the cocoon, which they use to pop out of. They come out all body with pitiful little bitty wings. Magically, after the moth scurries to a support and hangs upside down, the wings grow hugely, the body shrinks, and, voila, you have a big moth! I never see any indicators that they're about to emerge, unless I just happen to hear scratching coming from their cage. Congratulations on your cecropias! Since we had such a long, cold winter, and they're once-a-year moths, it may be July or August before they make their appearance. Sherry