Sooooo, I am back. What a learning process this has been. But progress is being made and we are thrilled. Some updates to the plan........and of course up up updates to the budget. We have spent/committed $148,000 so far. I can give a breakdown of expenses if anyone is interested...we have had to delay the outdoor renovation for the time being. Here is the work we have accomplished (or are going to accomplish). All of this is included in the $148K except where noted. BATHS Rip out 3 and a half baths down to studs, remodel using Home Depot marble tiles in full baths (12 x 12 on floor, combination of 2x2, 6x6, and subway tile on walls. (to ceiling), Glass tile accents and borders. Slate floor in half bath. Kohler Archer tubs & toilets, etc. Restoration Gramercy Marble top vanity in two bathrooms, Restoration mirrors, Restoration Hardware lighting. Custom glass shower enclosure/door in master bath. Salvaged vintage sink and toilet in Full bath-YAY!, savings!. Kohler sink and toilet in half bath. KITCHEN Rip out entire kitchen (14 x 17) to studs. Install BR-11 Wenge floor 5 inch width.. Move plumbing and electric to accommodate new kitchen design. All Viking appliances: 36 inch stand alone freezer (floor model), 36 inch stand alone Fridge (floor model), 30 inch wall oven, 24 inch wall microwave with trim kit, Dishwasher, 36 inch cooktop. Shiloh inset shaker cabinets and center island painted polar white. Cabinets will consist of base cabinets, wall cabinets and additional set of glass cabinets above wall cabinets, to extend to ceiling. Minimal pull outs and special features (we couldn't afford any special features!!) Honed marble tops on counters and island, in either Imperial Danby or Carrara (budget reflects Carrara, but I love the milkyness of Danby). Elkay extra deep sink and moen faucet. Drawer pulls TBD (not budgeted yet). Rip out laundry room to create mud room (create cubbies. shelves, etc). install slate floors in mudroom. Take out all "stucco" walls and ceiling in den (down to studs). Replace with drywall and shaker molding. Remove carpet in 4 rooms over garage (1000 sq ft) and replace with Koka Oak ($5 sq foot). There is only a subfloor under carpet. Install base molding. Replace 8 windows with Anderson wood and vinyl windows. Removal of 11 hollow core doors (30 x 80) and replace with Jeldwen 5 panel shaker doors. Hardware TBD (not budgeted). Reconfigure of master Bedroom to Build walk in closet. Build walk in closet. Installation of Central Air to entire House. (time consuming and frustrating!!) Demolition of Basement walls/panelling to expose source of water coming in. Dig one side of foundation to reveal source of water getting in basement.....repair and replace dirt. Removal of wall paper from first and second floor. Sanding, Skim coat (2 coats) plaster, sanding again. I think that's all for right now. I am not doing any of the actual work, but I am exhausted nonetheless!!

Um I assume the area labeled garage is only the ancillary garage and not the main one? Your windows sound fine. One thing you might consider is having the windows come down to the countertop on either side of the range, but having the bottom parts frosted for privacy. As for your other things, let me take them one by one: Island - open to options, this is still an area being worked, but we expect to have a prep sink, microwave (if not matched with combi-steam oven on wall), trash/recycling, and seating for at least 5. I'm also debating a 15" or 24" induction cooktop on the island - open to thoughts on this, and how it would be utilized and be placed. With an island that is only 5' wide you only have room for 2 or maybe 3 if it's kids to sit at the island. Each butt needs 24". I'm also debating a 15" or 24" induction cooktop on the island - open to thoughts on this, and how it would be utilized and be placed. You absolutely do NOT want any type of cooktop on the island and especially one that is so small. Even induction needs good venting. Are you planning on having two vents? Appliances - still working to make final selections, but here are the current options: Range - most likely 36" Wolf (DF364G) or Blue Star (BSP366B), but debating 48" - think it'll be overkill with the induction cooktop and separate oven, but it looks cool...just not worth the extra money. We're committed to gas for the look, but I feel the love of induction here! I would forget the gas and go with a 36 induction cooktop and separate ovens for several reasons. 1. Do you really want your baby breathing in those gas fumes? 2. When your child is older, then you need to constantly watch your toddler to make sure they stay away from the range, and don't accidentally turn it on or burn themselves. 3. With induction, it's much easier to clean up. Would you rather be spending your time scrubbing grates and stovetops or playing with your baby? 4. Induction is more precise. 5. Since you have a grill outside, it's almost redundant. 6. It will be a heck of a lot safer when you and the kiddo start cooking together. Range Hood - size clearly depends on the range, but planning to go with VAH Wall Mounted Professional Series (or similar) with duct to ceiling. I've heard excellent things about the VAH and my sister is quite happy with hers. Induction Cooktop - open to advice here, but looking for a 15" to 24", and most likely in the island...this may be unnecessary and removed. See above where I explained you don't have room on your island and why I would go with induction only. Refrigerator - Thermador Freedom Columns (T30IR800SP and T18IF800SP) or SZ 48" built-in (BI-48SID/S). Another excellent choice. Oven/Warming Drawer - leaning toward the Miele Combi-Steam Oven (M6160TC) plumbed in, but still need to check out the options and get hands-on experience. Trying to match with the Miele warming drawer (ESW6680). Note: These aren't shown in the plans, but intent is to put them by the fridge on the side toward the range. Just make sure you don't put the warming drawer too low down or you'll never use it. Microwave - Sharp (SMD2470AS) - open to options here. I love my Sharp MW drawer and this is the one I'm getting for my new house. Realize that every MW drawer is made by Sharp so no reason for paying more for branding. Dishwasher - Bosch (SHX68T55UC) - may go higher end to get quieter, also need hands-on experience to confirm dishes fit, etc. Sink / Faucet - Rohl 30" Farmhouse (RC3018WH) and Kraus (KPF-1602-KSD-30) Prep Sink / Faucet - TBD, open. All fine. I would also look at the Franke Farmhouse sink. I think I like the look a bit better. As can be seen in the layout, we have a formal dining room, but that's not used as much today...we'll see how it evolves with the new home. We'll also have a table in the Sunroom to serve as a quasi-breakfast nook/eating area. Down the road, we'll add a patio, as well, with more seating and eating options. The formal dining room is far from the kitchen and if it's not used, why not turn it into an "away" type of room or a library or study for now. Then if your lifestyles change where you realize you need a more formal dining area you can turn it back into a dining room. Overall, IF you don't put an induction cooktop on the island, I like the overall plan. As long as you keep the prep sink on the island, I think it's a well thought out plan. The only change I can see offhand is to move the prep sink a bit over to the fridge so you have more space on the left of the sink for prepping.

Thanks All - I am adding a few more pictures of details of the issues. They are pretty representative of the entire job. He used a Sherwood Chestnut Alkyd stain, and then applied a weathered wood wiping stain on top. Then 2 coats of sprayed varnish that created a fog across all the wood. It seems like that might have been flawed methodology from the onset. And coupled with his level of skill, and no prep work or wood conditioner got us where we are. The first painter I talked to about re-doing the job suggested sanding to remove the varnish, then reapplying a penetrating stain. Sounds like this has no chance of working? Paintguy22- The trim was done in that manner to match the original trim of the house (doors and windows all trimmed that way). Thanks for the perspective on pine. I had also considered fixing the doors only, and then painting the trim. However, after talking to our carpenter it is not possible to remove the pocket doors without re-doing the trim. Even if we can get the doors to look decent, I am not sure if we should paint the trim white or slightly darker than the walls in that case. Jn 3344 - Ouch, fixer upper? obviously not our original intent or I wouldn't be here :) Windows were not ordered primed, as we did not plan on painting. How would you move forward with the windows there if we decide to paint?

Get your general involved early. In most cases, a good general can either assist with the design or has a good designer you can with with that they also are comfortable with (usually, if you like the general, they tend to work with similar people, so chances are, you will like their people as well). Must generals will also either have the ability to generate plans for the roof section and an engineer to review and stamp if necessary, and/or an architect/pan designer to assist in that process. Without plans on the roof section, proposals you receive will be estimates based on final design which means a bit of a moving target and more difficult to compare apples to apples between various GC. IMO, get proposals on the clearly defined work (most generals will give budgets for unspecified items based on their interviewing of you) and make a selection you feel most comfortable with based on the more concrete projects. Of course let them know you intend to do the roof section. If you need a roof number, just ask that section specifically be broken out from the total project.