Aha, now I see what you're layout is. I was reading it all wrong from the first diagrams. I thought that was a sink under the window beside the range, but now I see it's just shadow cast by a pendant light and the sink is to the left of the dw (unseen). I could not figure out why you would have the sink beside the stove, and the dw on another run, lol, so hence we were talking at cross purposes. That said, I think I would try putting the sink where the pendant light is, and dw to the right of it. Then put the range on the middle wall beside the window with no uppers on that middle wall. At least to see what it looks like. I think the workflow would function better that way. My concern with existing is that you're going to be prepping over the dishwasher, and having to move if another family member wants in/out of the dw would get annoying. Also the range is kind of far away from your prep space as you currently have it shown. Putting the range on the middle wall and sink/dw on the outside wall would solve that problem and give you a better flow. I'm not 100% sure of the look though so you might try mocking it up to see what you think. I'd also look at putting the microwave beside the pantry on the fridge wall, experimenting with a look that brings a "hutch-like" enclosure right up to the end of that wall and not wrapping around the corner.

That's why I often suggest a range (w/oven) under the hood and second wall oven, if needed, elsewhere that's primarily used for things like baking where you wouldn't mind any odors coming from it. Who hates the smell of spice cake baking? (And hopefully you don't burn the brownies!) I happen to have a two-oven range and one of my ovens is my roasting and broiling oven. I can't imainge not having it - and its exhaust products - located where they will be drawn right up, and out, through the hood. A wall oven adjacent, but not under, the range hood will not be effectively vented by it because of how steam and hot air expands in an upward cone. It has to start out under the hood to get captured.. Apparently many people don't use use their ovens like I do. My roasting oven works, hard! And I really don't want to smell last night's broiled fish or roasted garlic - as tasty as they were - the next day. I also think a range and a single wall oven would be quite a bit cheaper than a cooktop and two separate wall ovens. If your range is gas (with a gas oven), you could still have an electric wall oven, which would give you two different fuel source types to play a round with. Araguato

In order to begin to understand it, you would need to buy ANSI Z21.1 for about $650. There is some very technical engineering, even though it doesn't look like it, in the ventilation between walls of the oven and cooktop sides that ensures that the cabinets up against the range will not get hotter than 194°F. If you block the airflow by lowering the range (some people try modifying the feet for thin countertops that make them less than 36" tall), or putting ducts in for MUA, the outside wall of the range will get hotter. If you force that much extra air through the range, (push or pull) you change the way the gas burns, and create CO problems. Even if you can adjust the air shutters to compensate, you would then have to turn on the entire system just to make a pot of tea, in order to get enough air to get a clean burn. With holes in the floor or back wall, the natural draft intended/engineered to cool the outer walls of the range can be disrupted or diverted, leaving the heat to build up around the range - nothing to do with heat in other areas of the home. What can't tolerate more heat than the wood cabinets around the range? Another separate reason for no holes is the possibility of a gas leak. How much gas do you think that duct will hold, just waiting for someone to create a spark? The testing standards do not say no holes "unless someone thinks of some unusual excuse".

Ah! you missed one of the versions of a comment I have added to quite a few threads. Here it is again. Because we do not get to close off parts of the hood not receiving cooking plume impact, all of the hood has to flow the amount needed at the most stressing part of the effluent plume to be contained at the hood baffle space. How much do we need? Well the actual issue is what velocity of air has to be pulled past the baffles to ensure that the rising plume is pulled into the baffles and contained, versus reflecting off of the baffles and potentially curling back into the room, thereby escaping the capture area and hence removal by the hood. Hot cooking plumes over gas burners can rise at velocities of 1.2 m/s, or almost 4 ft/s. The baffle gap is roughly half the baffle assembly area, so to entrain the plume flow, it seems that some portion of 4 ft/s or 4 x 60 CFM per sq. ft. of baffle area is needed for good containment. Actually, there is usually space under the baffles larger than the baffles proper, so adequate flow is needed all across the hood capture aperture. I believe that I have about 900 actual CFM at home, pulled through a 10 sq. ft. Wolf Pro Island hood. This is equivalent to 90 ft/s. This works over induction hobs, including searing and wok cooking with a 3500W Cooktek wok hob. As it happens, Greenheck also looked into the requirements for CFM, perhaps like me doubting that 100 CFM per ft. of hood edge had a mathematical connection to the process of cooking plume containment. They have published a range of values, and I have taken the liberty of copying their relevant table below. So take your hood area, multiply by some value you believe in for actual needed flow, then multiply by another factor to account for blower ratings not actually applying to the conditions in which they are used. (Another topic written about here more than a few times.) http://www.greenheck.com/media/pdf/otherinfo/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf No one has complained here that aiming for 90 CFM/sq. ft. of hood aperture allowed smoke and steam to escape into the kitchen, so long as the hood overlapped the cooking area by enough to capture the expanding plumes.