Re: Sillites rated ampacity The requirement for 20-A circuits determines the ampacity of the cabling and of the protective device. Both 15A and 20A receptacles can be used on a 20A circuit. See NEC (NFPA 70 2008) Table 210.21(B)(3). Individual loads at these receptacles cannot exceed 12A for 15A receptacles or 16A for 20A receptacles per Table 210.21(B)(2). If the island receptacle is the only receptacle on a 20A circuit, then the receptacle has to be rated at 20A. Just put another receptacle somewhere on this circuit and a Sillite can be used. Generally, one wants to use a lot of receptacles to ease connection of small appliances without resorting to extension cords. More than the minimum two 20A countertop circuits are a good idea, if the area to be covered is extensive. Other circuits should be added if possible for refrigerators, garbage disposers, microwave ovens, hood fans, lights, etc. I cannot recommend too highly the NEC 2008 Handbook to use for planning. It combines the entire National Electrical Code with explanatory material and graphics. kas

A pony wall for the back of the peninsula is a pretty standard solution for this problem. And that support on the DW end should be examined to be sure it's really the 1 1/2" panel you think it is. That would be two 3/4" panels bonded together, and if so, then that's sufficient if they run from the counter height all the way down to the floor. That would be sufficient vertical support, but it would not be that stable just to be there on the end. You probably also want a filler in there at a 90 degree angle to provide additional stability. Basically, building a box out of the 3/4" panels with the filler in the middle, and then running enough horizontal support at the rear and front so that it's not wonky. Or just do another pony wall and cover it with some skins. It's probably cheaper (and sturdier) to do it that way for sure. You can always turn the studs sideways to use less space.

scrappy, I wanted to wait on talking to the inspector until I understood better what the options (if any) would be. I don't know your experience, but mine, though limited, has been that some inspectors are helpful, some not, and none should ever be "pressed" to answer in advance of having the work ready for inspection. I think "pressing" means asking for an answer when the inspector doesn't know either. The one I spoke with was in between. He read the NEC code section 422 something to me that deals with dishwashers. I had read that when googling and reading forums (I did not tell him) but I knew that did not address my situation. He (the code) said that the DW could plug in with a plug wire that was not less than 3' nor more than 4' running to a switch under the sink. (The switch would be the required disconnect in an accessible location.) Fine, that's the way most are done because most DW are right next to the sink. But then I tried to delicately "press" about the intervening 9" cabinet, because code requires the switch to be in an "adjacent" space. I asked if the wire could run through the 9" cabinet to under the sink, just as the DW discharge would be doing. He sounded defensive and said he would have to look up the code definition of "adjacent". I already knew the code does not define "adjacent". Then he said just hard wire it and put a lock out thingy (that wasn't his word) on the fuse in the main. I decided I'd better stop there, thanked him for his help. So, what I have learned (for my jurisdiction) if the DW is not going to be directly next to the sink: 1) Check first whether your DW will give a choice of plug in or direct wire. (He did say he goes by whatever the manu booklet says). From my researching I believe that going to plug in is already trending and may become standard by the manufacturers. It may become an NEC requirement based on pending NEC revisions for 2017. However, there may need to be additional clarification/resolution on "accessibility". The "accessible with no tools" seems to be an issue for a DW that has retaining screws. The "adjacent" requirement not only needs to be defined but also the running of a "soft wire" through cabinets needs to be clarified. It may be that a DW plug wire running through cabinets does not fall under the prohibition of having soft wires in a wall, which everyone already knows is a no-no. And if it is OK to run the wire through one cabinet wall (which presumably it is since putting the outlet under the sink requires the wire to go through a cabinet wall anyway), why is running it through more than one cabinet wall a problem? (My 9" cabinet would be within the 3'-4' but more intervening cabs could be a problem.) 2) Electrical wiring forums (I googled many) show that there is uncertainty as to both current and pending code for DW wiring when the DW is not directly adjacent to the sink cabinet as well as what "accessible" means for a plug in appliance that is not immediately removable without tools (toaster oven on counter top versus DW with retaining screws). 3) The most practical solutions, with explanations justifying the possible contradictions, on forums is to run the plug to a GFIC outlet under the sink. The less appreciated method is the old fashioned direct wire with the thingy on the circuit breaker in the main box. No one seems enamored with that which may be a reason for the code to be under revision. However, right now at least, that old way would still meet code (in my jurisdiction). 4) I suspect that if I applied for the permit and had the plug run through the 9" cabinet to a GFCI outlet under the sink that it would pass inspection because doing it that way makes sense of the code. Apparently when the code does not define a particular word, then dictionary definitions can be used to supply the meaning. "Adjacent" means "near"; directly adjacent means "right next to". No one would ever have to say "directly adjacent to" if "adjacent to" already means "directly". 5) I may wait a few months to apply for a permit with he hope that the inspector forgets that someone called and pressed him on "adjacent". I think what I am going to do is have the plug run through the 9" cabinet to a GFCI under the sink and also have the holes in the sides of the cabinets have the wire protected with cable management grommets (to prevent any abrasion). I strongly suspect from what I've been reading that through a few cabinet is what is typically done and if this inspector sees it that way he won't think anything about the meaning of "adjacent". As a HO, I want my plug to be in the most likely place - under the sink. If it doesn't pass I'll have it rewired and a thingy place on the circuit breaker.

One of my motivations for keeping the sink/range where they are is to minimize labor costs, which seem to be almost two times higher for any work (on the plus side, it's as if all appliances and materials are 50% off). For example, a quote from a highly rated (for both quality and cost) installer to just hang the stock Ikea cabinets is $2000. I plan to go with them, or just do it myself. It's a small condo, so both walls are interior walls with no exterior access. The range hood duct currently vents to the exterior through the dining area (running straight between two ceiling joists). I'm hoping to reuse the existing 240V junction box where the slide in range currently sits for both the oven and cooktop to avoid breaking into the concrete slab to run thicker wiring. Will extending the countertop overhang from 10" to 15" help with safety and usability of the cooktop? The dining area isn't large enough to really take advantage of countertop seating. To keep the range in that position: 1. Move sink supply/drain lines several feet along existing wall. 2. Buy a more expensive, larger 36" range hood. But use existing ducting. To switch the sink and range: 1. Break concrete slab to route 240V across kitchen. 2. Run plumbing and drain line around kitchen wall. 3. Modify ikea cabinets to run supply and drain lines through them (the toe kick solution looks nice, but will require elevating all cabinets). 4. Modify ceiling to extend existing range duct across kitchen, and through two joists along the wall. On another note, I will probably go with a 30" GE induction cooktop with 28.5" cutout width requirement, as it seems to be the only one small enough that can fit the 30" ikea cabinet (which has two 3/4" sides for an opening of exactly 28.5"). But I'll have the countertop opening cut slightly larger so larger cooktops could be added in the future by shaving down the sides of the ikea cabinet.