Either white or gray. Both would look good.

Keep in mind that due to the metal roof and the height of the drop, you will want shrubs that will tolerate snow and ice being dumped on them and that if there's too much damage that you can cut to the ground and they will regrow quickly. There is a range of these caning shrubs, including spirea, ninebark/Physocarpus, forsythia, Hydrangea arborescens like Annabelle or Incrediball, and mock orange/Philadelphus. IME most Rhododendrons shed snow reasonably well, and will recover from needed pruning if damage does occur, though more slowly than the first list. Boxwood and Thuja don't recover well from snow and ice damage IME and will remain damaged looking for several seasons. Unless you have gutters that I am not seeing, plant outside of the drip line under the roof edge, since most shrubs don't like the force of a line of falling water hitting in the same spot on a regular basis, so they will grow unevenly. Alternatively, use a combination of trellised vines (that you can trim back as needed) with perennials, including some large (shrub-sized ones) ones like Amsonia hubrichtii or Baptisia. They will die back to the ground and resprout in spring and so won't be damaged by ice and snow rocketing down from the roof. Vines that would work include the native trumpet honeysuckle Lonicera sempervirens (which retain branches over winter, but can be pruned and recover) and many clematis (hard prune clematis that get cut to the ground in the fall will leave your trellises bare for winter lights). I think that given the range of light levels and height, you might want more than one type of plant but not a hodgepodge of many different types. Since (I am assuming) this is a garden that will be viewed from a distance you want fewer larger masses rather than many different, smaller items. Use a taller shrub that likes more light over towards the left side by the driveway. Be sure to research ultimate size so that it fits without rubbing the building or spilling over onto the walkway or drive. Use ones that are fine with less light on the right side and perhaps in the middle. Though the porch is symmetrical, the house as a whole isn't, so you don't need both sides to look the same, and due to the different heights and growing conditions, I don't think looking the same all the way across is a reasonable goal. All the plants I mentioned will grow in my area, so will be fine as far as hardiness.

Better find out if that garage falls into this video subject.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VseMZ3TcqDw Also, better find out what that garage is? Cedar pre treated siding that was stained by the builder, or Siding that was stained from the factory. As this is very important before you make a firm decision on if you need to paint it or just re stain it, and do go carefully, if you choose the "Paint Stain" product. Also, I read that if the wood has any knots in it, you will want to prime them seperately to keep that from bleeding thru your topcoat..assuming you are painting it. You may find that the best choice is just to restain it, as one does to keep up a wood privacy fence for the maintenance of the structure. https://www.hometips.com/house_painting_exterior.html   Steps 6, 7, 8 and 9 have tips on wood exteriors..

Do these hydrangeas and other plants still have greenery in winter? When I was landscaping my last house, I was told it was probably better to have evergreens next to the house so you had something to look at through all seasons. You wouldn't need to have evergreens straight across, but a few in strategic places would keep up the curb appeal through all of the seasons. I think you would possibly want evergreens on either side of the stairs for that reason. I think hydrangeas might be great elsewhere.