To post a photo here you need to first have it uploaded on a website. There are several free photo hosting sites. www.photobucket.com, www.flickr.com, www.webshots.com. Once uploaded you just need to provide a link to where the photo is. Or do an html image tag and include it inline with the post. Why can't you do the brick veneer? I would find the one that is the closest match for the background color of existing brick and then either use stain or paint to get it to match. You could probably do that one yourself and just have them put it up. Without seeing how it looks I think doing another hard surface that is not currently part of your house wouldn't tie in very well. What was used on the addition? Stucco or siding? I would either match that or try to match the brick.

I'd read the thread before, but couldn't think of an improvement on jakuval's suggestions--I really like the one with the peninsula. That narrow hallway must be a pain, although I understand your space restrictions. I have a 30" opening from the LR to the kitchen, and I thought that was bad. Don't know if this will be real help, but the only alternate plan I thought of is to keep the plumbing on the right wall (I have the plan turned 90°) and pull the bases forward to accommodate the pipe. That would allow you to have a standard depth fridge, and give you more counter depth. You could also have deeper uppers (15-18") for more storage. I put a pull-out pantry beside the fridge, and 15" deep cabinets on the island. I was thinking you could use those for extra pantry storage by mounting shelves on the doors, to make canned goods easily accessible. I added a 15" overhang for seating, but it could be more shallow as your space is limited. With entries to the kitchen on both sides of the island, maybe traffic flow will be improved. I used the 30" range, which is out of the way of traffic, except when someone is coming in from the terrace, but there is space to pass behind the cook. If the window is lower than counter height, the small cabinet on the end can be installed at standard depth, and it could house the MW drawer--or the MW could be incorporated into the upper cabinet beside the fridge. The shelf might need to be the same depth as the fridge box, to accommodate the pipe. I added a shallow cabinet in the corner, just inside the door. That could be a broom closet, command center for a message board and calendar, charging station, or extra pantry storage. Thanks, jakuval, for the templates.

You need to attach wooden furring strips to the brick, and screw the sheet rock to the furring strips. You can glue the furring strips on the brick with a construction adhesive that bonds on contact (Loctite Power Grab). The key is to make the thickness of the furring strip + 1/2" sheet rock come out even with the rest of the wall. You'll need 4 furring strips - one on each end, and one on each corner:

First, you’ll probably never keep mice out. They seem to be able to squeeze through anything. Traps may help but can be a never ending process. Grass and debris blowing in is usually a sign that your garage door doesn't have a proper insulating strip on the bottom. There are basically two types to buy. I couldn’t find any at Home Depot so Amazon to the rescue. Draw a picture of your existing rubber strip and then measure height and the width of your door. You will search garage weather seal. They had pictures to match. The old rubber pulls out and you insert the new. There are also threshold mounted versions where your door closes tightly against the strip stuck to the garage floor.