What's the aisle width b/w the island and the doorway that leads to the LR/DR area? If there's enough space, perhaps you could increase the width of the oven cabinet and put an outlet on each side. Use trim to fit the oven in the wider cabinet. I'm not sure how much room you need. I do know that the outlets in the ends of our peninsulas fit b/w the side of the drawers & the side walls of the cabinets without affecting the drawer itself...i.e, no reducing the drawer, etc. However, there may be some electrical/code reasons not to do this, so maybe an expert electrician will chime in as well! Do you have a picture of the cabinets in the island you could post? It may give us more ideas if we actually see what you're describing, especially for "visual" people.

scrappy, I wanted to wait on talking to the inspector until I understood better what the options (if any) would be. I don't know your experience, but mine, though limited, has been that some inspectors are helpful, some not, and none should ever be "pressed" to answer in advance of having the work ready for inspection. I think "pressing" means asking for an answer when the inspector doesn't know either. The one I spoke with was in between. He read the NEC code section 422 something to me that deals with dishwashers. I had read that when googling and reading forums (I did not tell him) but I knew that did not address my situation. He (the code) said that the DW could plug in with a plug wire that was not less than 3' nor more than 4' running to a switch under the sink. (The switch would be the required disconnect in an accessible location.) Fine, that's the way most are done because most DW are right next to the sink. But then I tried to delicately "press" about the intervening 9" cabinet, because code requires the switch to be in an "adjacent" space. I asked if the wire could run through the 9" cabinet to under the sink, just as the DW discharge would be doing. He sounded defensive and said he would have to look up the code definition of "adjacent". I already knew the code does not define "adjacent". Then he said just hard wire it and put a lock out thingy (that wasn't his word) on the fuse in the main. I decided I'd better stop there, thanked him for his help. So, what I have learned (for my jurisdiction) if the DW is not going to be directly next to the sink: 1) Check first whether your DW will give a choice of plug in or direct wire. (He did say he goes by whatever the manu booklet says). From my researching I believe that going to plug in is already trending and may become standard by the manufacturers. It may become an NEC requirement based on pending NEC revisions for 2017. However, there may need to be additional clarification/resolution on "accessibility". The "accessible with no tools" seems to be an issue for a DW that has retaining screws. The "adjacent" requirement not only needs to be defined but also the running of a "soft wire" through cabinets needs to be clarified. It may be that a DW plug wire running through cabinets does not fall under the prohibition of having soft wires in a wall, which everyone already knows is a no-no. And if it is OK to run the wire through one cabinet wall (which presumably it is since putting the outlet under the sink requires the wire to go through a cabinet wall anyway), why is running it through more than one cabinet wall a problem? (My 9" cabinet would be within the 3'-4' but more intervening cabs could be a problem.) 2) Electrical wiring forums (I googled many) show that there is uncertainty as to both current and pending code for DW wiring when the DW is not directly adjacent to the sink cabinet as well as what "accessible" means for a plug in appliance that is not immediately removable without tools (toaster oven on counter top versus DW with retaining screws). 3) The most practical solutions, with explanations justifying the possible contradictions, on forums is to run the plug to a GFIC outlet under the sink. The less appreciated method is the old fashioned direct wire with the thingy on the circuit breaker in the main box. No one seems enamored with that which may be a reason for the code to be under revision. However, right now at least, that old way would still meet code (in my jurisdiction). 4) I suspect that if I applied for the permit and had the plug run through the 9" cabinet to a GFCI outlet under the sink that it would pass inspection because doing it that way makes sense of the code. Apparently when the code does not define a particular word, then dictionary definitions can be used to supply the meaning. "Adjacent" means "near"; directly adjacent means "right next to". No one would ever have to say "directly adjacent to" if "adjacent to" already means "directly". 5) I may wait a few months to apply for a permit with he hope that the inspector forgets that someone called and pressed him on "adjacent". I think what I am going to do is have the plug run through the 9" cabinet to a GFCI under the sink and also have the holes in the sides of the cabinets have the wire protected with cable management grommets (to prevent any abrasion). I strongly suspect from what I've been reading that through a few cabinet is what is typically done and if this inspector sees it that way he won't think anything about the meaning of "adjacent". As a HO, I want my plug to be in the most likely place - under the sink. If it doesn't pass I'll have it rewired and a thingy place on the circuit breaker.

Standard height receptacles are about 11-12" from the floor to the bottom of the receptacle box, and switches are about 44-45" to the bottom of the box; however, I'm not aware of any specific height requirement; however, it generally makes inspection go smoother if you don't do anything far out of the norm. The minimum number and type of receptacles is dictated by the applicable electrical code. There are minimum wall and counter spacing requirements for every room, amperage and type requirements for bathrooms and kitchens, GFCI and AFCI requirements, tamper resistant requirements, and many other factors to consider. Its really not that many rules; however, in my experience the kitchen is one area where it may be up to the judgement of the inspector because the unique configuration of counters, islands, etc. makes it more subject to interpretation. For example, my old house had only two receptacles in the MBR. If I upgrade the electrical I have to make sure that no space on the wall is more than 6 feet from a receptacle, ensure its a minimum of 14/2 wiring (grounded) for 15 amp tamper resistant receptacles, and in most cities I now need to add AFCI protection. Another example is the kitchen, where you need two 20 amp, GFCI protected circuits for small appliance (toasters, etc.), along with all the other kitchen circuits for refrigerator, range, dishwasher, lights, etc. Bruce

I cannot read your drawing on my screen. You should peruse magazines, Houzz, Pinterest, and save any kitchen designs pics that appeal to you. Your designer needs to have something to start with - do you like modern, traditional, transitional? Though don't get hung up on meaningless marketspeak design names like "modern farmhouse", "industrial chic", or "the horsey-set look". Pictures tell a thousand words. In any case, here are the questions I would start with: - what is your budget. This one is the lynchpin for any plans you have for your kitchen. Nothing - nothing - can proceed without a ballpark of what you want to spend. Is it $40k, $75k, $100k? You will need to buy cabinets, counters, appliances, sink or sinks, faucet(s), ceiling lighting, undercabinet lighting, hardware, backsplash, maybe flooring. Think about what you want to spend for all that. - appliances - what kind of cooking do you do, and for how many? That would help to determine your appliances. Is a 36" fridge enough, or do you need larger, or do you have ability to have a spare fridge in the basement for overflow. Do you want a rangetop plus wall ovens, or a range? Do you have a gas line for a gas cooking, or do you want all electric? And most of all, no matter what, come hell or high water, make sure to budget for hood exhaust, including making sure your duct from the hood to the outside is 8" or 10" diameter. This is not negotiable. - counters - do some online reading about the various counter types such as granite, marble, Quartz, quartzite, soapstone. There is no "correct" counter. It's what appeals to you in the way of looks, budget, and upkeep. - cabinets - it is sometimes hard to know whether you would want wood, white painted, or color-painted. Again, look at kitchen pics and see what appeals to you. Also, take your kitchen into acount with this decision - if your kitchen won't get a lot of light, perhaps dark cabinets isn't what you'd want. How high is your kitchen's ceiling? I think 9' is ideal. Taller than that adds issues of cost, lighting, and practicality.