We did something similar a couple of years ago because we didn't want an acrylic base. Our curved glass sliding doors run in a track, though. Here's what we did. (Disclaimer: the terminology may not be exactly right; the sequence of steps might be a bit out of whack, but the process is all there.) We built (of wood) a curved curb that was covered with cement board. A metal worker came in and fabricated a copper pan on site (copper pans required by code in RI). That cost $600! Then the tile guy poured a concrete base and then tiled the floor and the inside and outside of the curb. For the top we found some rectanglar tiles just the right length. The tile guy laid them side to side (not end-to-end), like you might see around the top of a well. To get the right curve, he had to cut some so the edges "sloped" so that instead of being squared rectangles, they were more triangular. They hang over the curb just a bit both inside and outside of the shower, but not so much that there is any danger of breaking one when stepping in or out of the shower. Then we installed and cauked the track for the doors and then the doors. It's worked very well since.

jridh...this is why spray foam has sheetrock between it and the living space. and yes, burning foam produces a gas as it burns. thus the need for fire rated sheetrock. OP putting the foam sheating on the exterior is the best investment for foam for walls. proper nailing pattern, seams taped and any holes sealed prior to cladding install. the foam sheating can go on top of housewrap, and if you chose foil/foam board and have brick cladding..you get a radiant barrier for exterior of walls with 3/4' air space between brick & foil. air sealing doesn't just happen. even with sheetrock & plywood sheating,,,air will find its way in through any small gap & hole. to air seal you have to caulk areas like sole plates to slabs & subfloors, seal wire & plumbing penetrations and any holes into the house from both attic and ambinet. however...if builder has limited time for foam in walls or conventional..it is doubtful that he will be on board with adding foam sheathing to extrior walls. when you add to depth of walls...window and door framing/finishing changes. this is why I didn't recommend this, for your situation. itrw...the builder isn't going to spend time to make this happen properly. the last thing you need is improperly flashed windows & doors due to last minute add on of foam sheathing. usually people who use sheathing on exterior of walls go into framing with this in mind..not an add on later. although ithis is the best use of $$ for added insulation & air sealing qualities. of walls. it iis in the planning stages that foam sheathing is discussed...not once walls are ready for insulation. as your doors & windows are in place & flashed...I don't think it will reasonably happen now. what people need to think about is...the sun hits one wall at a time. but it hits the roof all day...every day. this is a better place to put the foam. if you have hvac equipment..ductwork, in attic and holes in the sheetrock ceiling..recessed lights oversized cuts for supply vents & bath fans...it is difficult to get these areas sealed properly. great stuff in a can is oten used..but it doesn't seal as well as people think..nor does it last. other things like kneewalls in the attic..changes of ceiling heights are also problematic. while they are usually insulated..they are not air sealed and allow attic temps to enter the house. over the years we have used the same foil/foam sheating to air seal knee walls & upstairs walls shared with attics to stop the air movement & temp gain. it is a tough install, thus another reason that the foamed roofline is so popular. this install will cover all of the builder/trades errors, allowing easier & affordable utility costs & smaller sized hvac systems. this late in the game...stick with air sealing walls insulate conventionally & insist upon air tight drywall aproach through out the house. and easy way to get it done is for sheetrock installers to install as if no moldings were being used. this will make sure that sheetrock is taped & floated behind ceiling moldings. closing leakage from attic into the house that is otherwise hidden behind crown moldings. google air tight drywall approach (ada) to better understand why this is an important part of the performance of your walls. best of luck.

Lyban, I'm sorry!! I absolutely love the floors, though I'm already wishing we'd sealed them (I think this will pass as I add furniture, rugs, etc). Unfortunately none of the pictures are very good so far, but here are some anyway. So, approaching hte basement, before you'd have seen really nasty old linoleum with dirt ground in and shiny dirty-looking paint Now you see fresh flat white paint and new charcoal carpet. The new basement floor is visible, but pretend you don't see that yet! Walking into the basement, before there were dirty dark shiny paneled walls (I don't even have any pictures of those), a moldy old dropped ceiling, flourescent lights above gross old panels, and dark brown vinyl tiles that were releasing from years of neglect. This represents a halfway picture, with older paint, the dropped ceiling removed, and new lighting. Then we painted the ceiling flat black (the subject of this thread, of course!), painted the walls bright flat white, and replaced the flooring with diamond-set white and grey vinyl tiles (the commercial stuff by Armstrong). The pictures of the new floor aren't very good...we don't have any of the new furniture we're planning to get and frankly I'm not even sure what I want. So I am definitely open to decorating ideas...I'm thinking charcoal couch, huge area rug (perhaps an accent color?), and a loveseat or additional chairs. Even now, as I sit here, we've placed some of the furniture--TV, our one chair, and the exercise stuff, but I dare not take pictures because DH finally has his TV back after almost 1.5 months! Laundry room main living area, with furniture all pushed to the middle (this was right after installation) To sum up, this is what's happened over the last 6-7 weeks: 1. ripped out old/moldy/disintegrating/incompletely installed dropped ceiling 2. installed can lights (removed old, in some cases nonfunctional, flourescent tubes) 3. painted the unfinished ceiling black (huge ordeal, involved moving almost everything upstairs and then taping off all walls and remaining items with thick plastic sheeting before renting a gigantic power paint sprayer...) 4. demolished huge, old, smelly, dusty-----but surprisingly (and unfortunately for me, the demolisher) well-built!----plywood/particleboard/pegboard/wood closets 5. ripped up nasty old floor tiles that were coming up and breaking into small pieces all over the place (thank you victoria---horrible job); we then lived with nasty black mastic for almost two weeks, until #8 happened this week. 6. Had an asbestos-wrapped copper water pipe professionally removed 7. painted old dark shiny paneled walls flat white, including the stairwell walls and ceiling. 8. installed new VCT tile and base molding, and carpeted the stairs with charcoal-colored carpet

I keep revisiting this thread, hoping for a Sign. :) Is it ever acceptable to use a shower pan and create a tile threshold over it, thereby making it higher? As for cleaning the nonskid elements of a shower or tub. I have some wonderful nonskid strips in my otherwise very slippery acrylic tub where I take my showers. Yes, they pick up and hold grime a little too well and you can't just go gangbusters cleaning acrylic. The other day I used some Softscrub and a curved nail brush that fits around a couple of fingers. With very little elbow grease ALL the grime was removed and the shape of the nail brush is very ergonomic.