Pam, I'm not sure what you meant by that but i think you're missing the point. It's about developing better root system regardless of where you plant, what the climate is and what tree species are. Better root system means better/faster establishment. It is a pain in the butt dealing with one long tap root that get circled around in the container. You have to mess with it to get it straightened out and not to mention more digging to get it deep enough. You don't have to worry about it with rootmaker's way. You just simply dig a hole and drop the tree in and move on. Here is the info from rootmaker website about seedlings plant out.. Question: Do you have any information on the use/success on the out planting of container seedlings grown in RootMaker II containers directly in the field for conservation/reforestation type projects? Answer: Tree seedlings in RootMaker® II propagation containers are routinely taken to the field when they are 12 to 16 inches tall and 3 to 4 months old. This has been done by hundreds of nurseries across the country. Most do fall planting  September or October and some have drip irrigation and others do not. (Drip irrigation assures nearly 100% survival. But even without drip irrigation, the success rate is quite high, except for the occasional severe drought immediately following planting). The primary reason for planting tree seedlings at a larger size is that in the small growth stage, telling seedlings that will make winner trees from culls is tough and the cull rate may be as high as 25 to 30% or more for the oaks. In one gallons, the cull rate drops to 7 to 10% and with 3 gallons to 2 to 3%.

Chris2009_2009, I'll try to answer your question though I'm not an expert by any means. Sounds like instead of 8 way hand tied springs, coil springs, s-springs, blue steel springs the furniture you are looking at has rubber webs to hold the cushions up. I may be wrong here but my best guess is check out an upholstered dining/kitchen chair, usually they have a webbing underneath them to hold the upholstered seating in place and give support. Of course the furniture could just be rubber/vinyl strips going from front to back or side to side like a lawn chair.

I imagine you are paying for the cabinets yes? If so then you have every right to a an explnation that you can understand and makes sense to you regardless of your level of expertise. Based on what I have seen a huge % of problems experienced in relation to renos are the result of inadequate communication between the homeowner and the contractor (communication: that's receiving and sending). Your guy sounds good, he is taking you to see his work and showing you whay he means. Don't back off because if you don't understand what you are getting and don't like it you will be unhappy and that isn't good for him. Most of the major hardware lines make side mount drawer hardware - it isn't as pretty but who really cares? My guess is that id does require that the drawer boxes be narrower so you are losing some space - probably not enough to worry about. Description of joints: Mitered Joint Mitred doors and drawers have a frame that is joined by a mitre joint at the corners. A mitre joint is a 45° cut on both the stile and the rail. This joint runs diagonally from the inside corner of the frame to the outside corner. Mitre cut doors are used on doors that have a fancy detail on the stile and rail that would be difficult to form with a Cope & Pattern joint (see below). Miter joints are also used on inexpensive doors because this type of joint is easy to make. Tenon & Mortise Joint A traditional tenon and mortise joint (similar to tongue and groove) is the most common, and provides strength to the joint. Each end of the rail has a tenon (extension), which fits into a pocket (mortise) cut into the side of the stile. Cope & Pattern Joint This type of joint is often seen on furniture grade cabinetry. Cutting tools are used to cut the rails (horizontal) and stiles (vertical) which result in two pieces, each a mirror image of the other. In addition, a slot is cut into the rail and stile for the center door panel. The shape of the cut allows for a greater glue area, resulting in a stronger joint. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here is a link that might be useful: good cabinetry overview

I live in Ohio and just purchased an Amish made dining set. Great quality. I looked at Costco and our local large furniture stores. Quality was just not there. Also looked at comparably priced Canadel dining sets. Looked nice but reviews pushed me away. What I learned is that most of the Costco Asian made furniture, as well as large furniture stores, are made with rubber wood. Malaysian oak is rubber wood. It is significantly inferior and explains why so many Costco reviewers complain about loose screws. Screws pull out of this inferior wood. Also, reading about rubberwood furniture explains why so many people complain about strong smells from their furniture. Rubberwood is loaded with insects and must be heavily fumigated. It takes several years for the gases to be released. Rubberwood has a great marketing campaign, and misleading blogs to enhance the image. Hope this is useful to someone.