Hey Homechicken: Seed saving is really easy. I do not know the nature of your Bell Peppers. Only Open Pollinated (not F1 hybrid) seeds will save and develop the same (or almost the same) as the plant you have this year. So knowing a name of the variety is important. Marconi on the other hand is a stable, variety and is not an F1 hybrid (by all probability, although there are a few on the market)....I take the seeds out of my red peppers (they are mature) and dry them a few days on something flat like a plate, then I pop them in a paper lunch sack and hang them up (I have a seed drying rack I made by using a curtain hanger and cafe curtain loops with hooks on the bottom for the bags). Alternatively if you have a folding (or basement) laundry line or even a hanger and some clothes pegs, you can hang them up...anywhere dry and not too sunny or too hot. So mine stay inside in air conditioning for 2-3 more weeks. Then I store them in plastic bags. I get small seed size bags (normally used for beads) for them, but snack baggies work great. For extra insurance popping them in a glass jar is super, although I use old shoe boxes with packets of stuff that absorbs moisture. They'll be all ready for next year!

Thanks you guys for your input. I won't be doing anything to the cabinet. The cabinet builder had done the work and I don't want to fuss with it now:) The original building plan was for the tile to be recessed into the side, butting up to the frame. But I built out the cabinet wall more fully than the initial plan. The plumber thought I needed to do the build out to correctly get the tub's tile flange covered. The hardy backer was originally going to set on top of the flange but the plumber would like to see it over lap the flange. So that is what I did. Hence the tiling surface is now too shallow to go with the the original plan. I had thought of the skinny tiles all the way down the frame but I don't like the look when I mock it up. I liked option #1 because it was efficiant in its design and has a clean look. But I worry about maintainance. If I do #1 I was planning on caulking the gap before tiling, painting with Hydroban, tile as usual, than caulk the seam between the wood and the tile. Any more thoughts on these ideas?

you are welcome. Hardcast 1402 is not sold at box stores it is a hvac supply product. foil tapes won't adhere to the sheetrock and the metal flange. mastic tape will. as you can see in pic it is silver with red writing. box stores may carry Nashua brand mastic tape an inferior product in my experience. mastic is thin, adhesion is not as strong. not worth the labor to replace when it fails IMO. here is an ebay link..not where I purchase from... but quick google search of product: http://www.ebay.com/itm/HVAC-Hardcast-AFG-1402-Rolled-Mastic-Duct-Sealant-Tape-3-x100-Topmost-Quality-/321032199173 take a look at the link..so you'll have an idea of what the roll looks like. not silver with blue writing...red writing.. other types do not seal long term pricy, but worth it as it lasts...according to johnston supply specs for 40 years. I can only vouch for 15 years when I first started using Hardcast. I have a real problem with having to go back & re-work previous work..thus the use of this specific brand of specific tape. if surfaces are clean & dry...it will seal to just about everything, stucco, cement & dirt excepted. once you use this product...you'll use it for lots of things. best of luck.

You can purchase 1/4in x 4in A36 flat plate from most steel suppliers they come in 20' lengths . Most suppliers can cut the material to your specific lengths for a small fee if you don't have tools to cut yourself . You can use a grinder with cutting disc or bandsaw to cut through the material . Rebar can be used as stakes but to keep it looking sleek and not have a bunch of ugly rebar showing it's best to weld the rebar to the edging as close to the bottom as possible . Be sure to lay the edging out first where you want it , stake it in place 1st with rebar and hammer it in the ground where needed then go back and weld in the permanent rebar on one side only . After you have everything welded in place remove the temp. stakes . Another tip is to do a string layout to follow so you can keep a perfect straight line. Don't forget to check your levels side to side constantly to ensure your edging looks truly perfect . If you have corners to go around that requires 90° angles use a cutting disc and score the edging about halfway but don't cut through then bend the steel without breaking to your angle . It will give the appearance of a continuous piece of steel that was bent with a break press . Try to incorporate step downs in places where the elevation drops to save money on having to buy more expensive wider steel plate . For rounded curves purchase thinner gauged plate such as 11gauge that you can bend by hand as you go . These are all tips I learned the hard way hope it helps even though I'm 5years late to the party 🥳🎉