Tri-color beech or contorted beech in container?
chamaegardener (Z5) Northeast Illinois
2 years ago
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Tri Color Beech .... AGAIN!
Comments (20)Uummmm...I'll join in the fray here to say that if you look at where most of these are from, it's not surprising they aren't hardier than zn 5b. Most of western Europe is 7b (colder parts of Germany) to 8b (milder parts of SE England) and that's where most of them were bred or selected. (of course there are some outliers, zn 6 in some mountain areas and zn 9 along coasts...I'm talking big picture) Yes if you went into the Carpathians or Alps you could probably find provenances of European beech that are fully zn 5 hardy but that's not where they were getting the seeds for these cultivars in most cases. IIRC there are some new German cultivars in the past decade or so. Maybe they are a bit hardier, maybe not. (German nurserypersons might be reasonably expected to have more of an interest in the colder markets of eastern Europe and Russia than UK ones) As other people have said, not only can Roseomarginata grow in full sun in mild climates, in _really_ mild climates they can grow astonishingly fast. I saw a tree in Pallanza, Italy on the incredibly mild shores of Lake Maggiore (70+ inches of rain a year, spread year round with a slight summer peak, almost no droughts, zn 9, perfect volcanic soil, summers sunnier than NW Europe but not as sunny as the CONUS, etc. etc.) that was only planted in the 1950s and was close to 100 ft. tall with a 4' diameter trunk! Must have been growing almost 2 ft a year. OTOH I know one in the garden of a collector outside DC that, last I checked in the late 2000s, was still alive. I had first seen it in the early 1990s. It had only grown about 10 ft. though, at most, (From 6 ft. to 15 ft. I'd guess) so it was only growing about 8-9 inches a year. It was in semi-shade with morning sun...he considered it a real prized plant and gave it a good spot. He said in the mid 2000s it still loses most leaves in hot dry years, even with afternoon shade. This post was edited by davidrt28 on Sat, May 17, 14 at 20:52...See MoreTri Colored Beech Rooting
Comments (8)I wonder if it is an easy thing to root European beech cultivars from cuttings. Where I live (The Netherlands) all the cultivars are grafted and I've never seen young plants that were propagated from cuttings. Propagation through cuttings is much more cheaper than grafting so why do professional growers keep on propagating European beech cultivars like 'Tri Color' 'Asplenifolia' and 'Rohanni' through grafting? One of the few answers I can think off is that the success rate of propagating European beech cultivars through cuttings is low and that grafting makes more economical sense. Can someone from the USA tell me if professional American growers propagate European beech cultivars through cuttings? Also, are there gardeners who have been able to root European beech cuttings without a professional setup (bottom heat, misting system, rooting hormone)?...See MoreTri Color Beech Trees
Comments (3)Ken here has one of the best I have ever seen. If I recall his is in a bit of a protected spot in zone 5. Here in zone 6 stl they cook in the sun and don't color well in too much shade. A tough balance but one of the most unique and eye catching views in nature....See MoreTri color Beech not leafed out
Comments (28)Thanks Ken & David; I thought I need to completely replant it (trees are very young; remove from soil, clean roots, and plant again), but after some research I think it is better just remove top soil and trim roots if needed, in fall. Some authorities advocate to plant grafted trees with graft union below surface that's why I did that. My Tri-Color is grafted. reason is this: you graft it to make it indeed grow, on a short few-inches rootstock. Or maybe on large rootstock, but then you reroot rootstock again, making it 3"-4". The idea is that to make scion grow fast. And then, by burying graft area below surface, you hope that scion will start its' own roots, and will become true specie on its' own roots, and for some species it is important. Another reasoning is to save graft union during Winter & Summer. Yes, some nurseries advocate that especially for fruit trees. But I saw on Internet pictures of huge trees (meter in trunk diameter) with visible graft union above soil and root crown above, looks amazing. For example, I planted few peaches in May, too deep, with graft union about 4" below surface, but replanted properly two weeks later, with roots slightly above the soil. All are leafing now, even (late) flowering. So, I thought I need to do the same surgery with Tri-Color Fagus, remove from soil, wash roots, trim, plant again; but will see in fall if I need that. I planted with graft union below surface (I don't even know where graft union is); if I am lucky and it has nice outward roots then nothing to do. Thanks! P.S. I am in Toronto (York), Ontario, our government lists it as Zone 6b, although we may have few days in Winter below 30 C. P.P.S. Since I am in Zone 6... I planted Morus Macroura (Pakistan Mulberry) and Morus Nigra (King James) let's see :)...See Moreken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
2 years agochamaegardener (Z5) Northeast Illinois thanked ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5chamaegardener (Z5) Northeast Illinois
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agotsugajunkie z5 SE WI ♱
2 years agochamaegardener (Z5) Northeast Illinois thanked tsugajunkie z5 SE WI ♱ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
2 years agochamaegardener (Z5) Northeast Illinois thanked ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5chamaegardener (Z5) Northeast Illinois
2 years agotsugajunkie z5 SE WI ♱
2 years agoUser
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agochamaegardener (Z5) Northeast Illinois
2 years agotsugajunkie z5 SE WI ♱
2 years agochamaegardener (Z5) Northeast Illinois
2 years ago
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