I don't see the spots on other leaves in the pic, I do see a yellowing bottom leaf. can we see a pic of the whole plant? what is the pot size and how did you repot, in what soil? how do you know when to water? bright light is good, early morning sun 3-4 hours is very good. diffused western light is good too. but no strong sun and no more then 4 hours, since it's an indoor plant, I assume? it likes hi humidity. misting is very good. what is your humidity level?

The plant is still very viable. IOW, I wouldn't assign it a 'circling the drain' status - just stressed. If you agree with the following - just ask for more directions. I'll lay out what my plan would be. For now, get your watering under control by using a wooden dowel rod (hardware or big box store) sharpened in a pencil sharpener as a 'tell' Stick it all the way to the bottom of the pot. If it comes out moist, withhold water until it first seems dry. To ensure the level of dissolved solids (mineral salts from fertilizers and tap water) isn't too high, flush the soil repeatedly with room temperature water. Slowly/evenly pour a volume of water equal to at least 10X the volume of the pot the plant's in through the soil, then fertilize with a recommended dose of an appropriate fertilizer. Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 is an excellent choice for almost all houseplants. Plan on repotting around Father's Day. Repotting is more extensive than potting up because it includes bare-rooting the plant, pruning the roots, and transplanting into fresh soil. Your choice of soil is a huge factor in how easy/difficult it will be to maintain excellent vitality, so learn something about container soils between now & then. I can direct you to some very good information if you wish. In the meantime, you might find the info at these links to be of more than casual value if you're serious about keeping your plant healthy. A basic primer About growing ficus in pots for the long term That should keep you occupied for a night or so. ;-) Al

See what happens (middle image below) when you rely on a "drainage layer" to improve drainage. The perched water table (PWT) that normally resides immediately above the pot bottom, now resides immediately above the drainage layer. The red spots in new foliage is an expression of the pigment anthocyanin, and will disappear as leaves mature. I see some scars that occurred from mechanical injury (like bruises), and some minor evidence of a physiological disorder called oedema, the driving force behind which is usually over-watering, but several other cultural issues can work individually or in concert with other cultural issues to exacerbate the problem. The most common issues, by far, are those related to the chronic condition of too much water in the soil. Getting that issue under control and learning what impact your choice of soil has on your plants' ability to realize their genetic potential, in that order, would be an easily reachable goal that will immediately increase your ability to keep plants healthy and the amount of personal satisfaction you'll take from the growing experience. Al

Which leaves are affected? Are they the bottom leaves only or all over the plant? Most of the time if it is only the bottom then it is root rot. If so, 1. take the root ball out of the pot 2. remove all affected leaves and rotted roots 3. place the plant in NEW dirt in a pot with good drainage 4. water slightly less than you did before if it is all over the plant, it is most likely under watering. start watering more frequently. I really hope this helps and just comment if you have more questions!!