Different species will come out a different shade even though the same stain is used. However you could have different techniques or a combination of techniques used in the areas with other types of wood (water pop, tints, dye). If you are considering staining maple you should look through the Hardwood Floors Magazine forum topic http://hardwoodfloorsmag.com/forum/topic31-staining-maple.aspx. My suggestion is to consider using a finisher with experience in matching colors. There is a large difference in skill level between different finishers in matching colors. It is not rocket science but there is a base of knowledge that is needed. Try to understand what the outcome is going to look like before the work starts as you will be the one to decide if it looks good in the end. Test patches or samples can help

@zorroslw1 LOL I hear ya, I'm not too far from the edge myself, but I think this particular issue may actually leave me be! @grapefruit1_ar Thanks for your kind words! And to everyone else for chiming in! A small update: My renovation project manager came over to my apartment yesterday to discuss loose ends (house call on a Sunday... thank god he lives a 20 minute walk from me—plus, what a good dude!). There are a few blonde planks feathered into the hallway that are next to some much darker pieces. He agreed the floor guy should've chosen better pieces for the transition so they'll be replacing those. But cherry picking blonde planks throughout the kitchen floor and replacing them is going to be a bigger deal because they're locked together at the ends and stapled down (maybe he said glued down? I can't remember). So that's a no go and I'm fine with that. Anyway, I'm already feeling a trillion times better. I'm sure a slight nagging feeling will bubble up now and again, but I know those feelings (like the floor color!) will fade in time.

Remember: floors are done LAST. The floors you have are factory finished (beveled edge + gloss = 99% chance they are factory finished). You will want to check to see if they are solid hardwood or if they are engineered. If they are engineered you will have to assess whether or not they can be refinished (you have to measure the thickness of the wear layer). To do this, you can pop off a floor vent and look at the cross section of the floor. If it looks like solid wood from top to bottom, then it is solid. If it is engineered then you simply measure the top layer. Now for the 'fun' part. Regardless of engineered or solid, a factory finished hardwood like yours will most likely be finished in Aluminum Oxide (heavily favoured when a higher gloss level is used), That means the top layer is going to be a BEAST to remove. It will cost more to refinish this than a traditional hardwood. The average sand/refinish costs $5/sf. If this is AO then you can add another $2/sf. That means you will spend $7/sf on a sand/refinish...just to get a different gloss level. Can you give us a better photo of the wood? It might be oak...but it might be maple. It would be helpful if we can see the wood grain. But the same issue remains...the top finish could be expensive to deal with. Just be prepared for $7-$8/sf for a full sand/refinish.

Would a ginger stain work? The first is a photo of the red oak floor in it's current state. The second photo is the sanded bow window sill.