Galleyette: It's far from finished, but it is fully operational..running water and the ability to get rid of same. Because of the limited space below the vanity we chose this sink - somewhat of a cross between a vessel-style and a counter level basin. The extra inches above the top made for an easier fit underneath. Here you get a good idea of the unique construction of this dresser that made for an easier installation. Notice the space where the p-trap is located...unused space behind the drawers. You can also see - right under the sink drain - a rail on either side for the smaller upper drawers. Another unused interior space, we routed supply lines here. Easy access for drain. Another interior view. bottom of basin is visible between two upper drawers. This scrollwork sits on a maple veneer 5" spacer between the two drawer fronts. Nice detail on the outside - you can see how convenient this is when you compare to location of drain fittings. Still needs a bit of refinishing work, but the whole idea is it looks well loved! We couldn't believe how well it turned out. Steve

Hi folks, I need your assistance. I have posted over at the plumbing forum about a problem with my new bathroom sink. Basically, I purchased a new vanity, top and sink as a set from an online company http://www.thebathroomdepot.com/bathroom/High-Point-Miami-24-Vanity-Collection-p-16427.html This was installed by my plumber on Thursday. Friday morning I woke up to find a hole in the bottom of the sink at the drain. My plumber, without seeing the sink or photos decided its a manufacturers error, the company I bought the set from says they don't warrent the sinks as its a basic no-name brand undermount. I need this fixed so I can use my bathroom sink. I have posted photos and just need to know if a sink that is a little larger that I can hopefully get at a local plumbing supply would work. Any input appreciated. I'm absolutely sick about this. Here is a link that might be useful: link to plumbing forum

@davidro1, I'm not concerned with the pop-up mechanism at all. I was concerned with the pop up housing being level with the drain line. I was worried that if water stayed in the pop up housing, that the housing might be prone to leaks (at the point where the ball and rod go into the drain pipe). I was also concerned with any code issues. I remember reading somewhere that there is a maximum allowable distance the p-trap can rise from the low point to the drain line. I assumed that reversing the j-bend would result in too much of a height difference to be code compliant (I'm still assuming this, since nobody has chimed in on this issue). However, more than the legality of it all, I really just wanted to know what bad consequences might happen as a result of reversing a j-bend. @jimsonburg, Thanks for the SPAM. Not. @homebound, I was concerned about the connections. The waste arm has the flared tip, but it doesn't seem so different from the plastic washer thing that goes in the tailpiece. I've went ahead and reversed the j-trap, and everything fits fine and feels really solid. I filled up the sink, drained it all at once, and there are no leaks. I've even opened up the pop up housing (where the ball goes in) and to my surprise, there is no standing water in there (the water line sits just below that). I'll keep an eye on it to make sure nothing leaks. If it does, I'm sure we'll notice it right away, before there's any major damage. Aside from a few bottles of cleaning supplies, we don't really use the cabinet under the sink, so maybe I'll just leave an old aluminum lasagna pan down there. At least that way, it'll catch any leakage should any occur, and it will alert me to any leakage by amplifying the sound of any drips.

Get yourself a 1-1/2" to 1-1/4" adapter for the drain stub, and then you can go 1-1/4" all the rest of the way. As for the bottle trap, while they look stylish, they are not code compliant in many areas of the country. In addition, unless everything aligns perfectly and the wall connection is exactly centered behind the drain stub with the fitting exactly 90 degrees to the wall, it can be quite difficult to get a bottle trap to fit properly and not leak. I considered a bottle trap for a recent bathroom reno, and ended up being glad I didn't. I'm pretty meticulous, but my sanitary tee was a hair out of square with the wall, and I wasn't ready to cut it out and try to replace it. Standard P-trap installations are much more forgiving.