Thanks Glennsfc, You're right about plastic look. I remember when my contractor finished 2nd coat, the floor was so beautiful, no plastic look. After the 3rd coat, in addition to the plastic look, to the ripples across the grain of the wood about 1 inch apart, I noticed that some areas of the floor look more grainy than other areas (the soft grain of the wood has been removed and I can feel the irregularity of the wood). My contractor said it's normal with red oak!!! I can't live with those marks but I'm afraid that after fixing it will be worst. If he re-buffs the floor & applies 1 coat of Bona Natural, does it enhance the plastic look? I'm also afraid that Bona Natural is too flat. What do you mean about re-sanding? Re-sand completely the floor then re-seal & re-apply 2 coats of Bona traffic or he just re-sands then re-applies 1 coat of Traffic? I really like the look of Traffic Satin. Thanks for your quick answer.

Ask him exactly how he abrades BonaSeal. He may be using the wrong product. It's not necessary to abrade between coats (within 48 hours) but doing so results in a smoother floor. I was taught that BonaSeal has something in it that balls up if abraded improperly. https://www.bona.com/Global/Countries/United%20States/Spec%20Sheets/December%202010%20Updated%20Specs/Bonaseal.pdf They recommend a Bona Conditioning pad with one or two Delta sheets. https://www.bona.com/Global/Countries/United%20States/Spec%20Sheets/December%202010%20Updated%20Specs/Bonaseal.pdf We generally use a white nylon pad with a strip or two of 150 grit adhesive backed sandpaper tape. It doesn't load up and comes out super smooth.

Brazilian Cherry darkens when exposed to "light". That means sunlight, overhead lights, moon light, flash lights, candle light, etc. You would have to find a "UV blocker" that WORKS with Brazilian Cherry. I know Loba makes UV Protect for Maple, but I'm not sure if it works for exotic hardwoods. I have not heard that Bona makes a UV protection product....but they might. As for "keeping them as light as possible" - keep the shades drawn and do not turn on the lights....as "cheeky" as my answer seems, it is very sadly the truth. And Brazilian Cherry has TWO different colour presentations: lava-red/orange/brown OR PINK/purple/brandy. Because you have not seen the colour of your floors before (they were coated in stain) you will not know which colour presentation you have until AFTER the floor is finished. It takes 2 weeks - 6 months for Brazilian Cherry to reach it's "terminal" colour (the darkest, richest colour). Until that time, they will get stronger and stronger in colour. Do NOT put down area rugs for at least 6 months.

As others have suggested, the sanding job was imperfect. The darker areas are most likely left-over finish that was never removed completely. If you bring in a professional, s/he *MIGHT be able to sand/patch specific areas. Might. No guarantees. And if this is present on every wall in every room, then the 'sand and patch' isn't going to be possible. It is faster and cheaper (labour costs for a professional) to have them sand it all down and start again. If this is left over finish then it is underneath the new application. To deal with it properly you must remove everything ON TOP so that you can sand down to raw wood once again. Sigh. Yes that means you need to do a sand/refinish once again. Edge sanding is a real b!tch to deal with. As you have discovered. It must be done in a specific way with machines (palm sander anyone)....which must follow the same grit levels as your big machine. That means if you used the 80, 100, 120 grit system on your big machine...then the palm sander must have the same 3 grit levels used as well...in the same sequence. The next question you are going to ask is, "Can't I just leave it if it doesn't bother me?" The answer is simple: "Sure....BUT you could get finish failure because of the two different chemicals decided not to bond properly." It is your decision. You can leave it as-is for now. You can move back into the space and hope for the best. The best case scenario is you cover everything up (because the issue is at the walls = furniture covers most of it) and you don't notice it for the next 20 years. Worst case scenario is it starts to bubble and peel in a short amount of time (less than 1 year) and it requires a full sand and refinish very quickly after you move all your furniture back in. It's your call. It is your home and your floor. Right now you have the benefit of an empty home and (probably) still have access to all the equipment needed. To achieve a full fix is very simple right now. If you leave it until later you will have to move everything out of the way again...