Economics Question
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Mimosa - an invasive plant discussion
Comments (68)Both common and glossy buckthorn are absolutely, without a doubt, DESTROYING vast wooded areas up here. Shade tolerant and very prolific, they easily move into wooded areas and set up shop. Once established they prevent EVERYTHING else from growing there. No more spring wildflowers, no more tree seedlings. Even maples, which are as a group very shade tolerant themselves, will not regenerate under the buckthorns. If you don't think something like this is a problem, it is because you lack the awareness of, and appreciation for, what was there before. Every exotic species is not invasive. I intend to plant some Norway spruce, for example, on land I plan to buy. Norway spruce can reproduce in this area, but will never become a problem plant. This discussion absolutely calls for a nuanced approach. Banning the use of ALL non-native species would be hugely ill-advised. But taking the view that any plant that can grow in a given locale should therefor be allowed to do so is just plain ignorant. The buckthorn invasion up here has been described as a slow-motion catastrophe, by people that can see and understand what's happening. Again, I think that people that don't see these invaders as problems have little understanding of the havoc they are causing. +oM...See MoreEconomic Lunacy - $8k exten (and vet owner additions!)
Comments (2)Dave, for what it's worth, I'm also against extending the first time home buyers credit. Sooner or later, the stimulus money is going to run out. I'd rather get it over with and start rebuilding the economy. The vet expense deduction, also know as the HAPPY act, is one of the most bizzare ideas I've heard yet. Here is a link that might be useful: Happy act...See MoreWhich is more economical? Small under sink heater or recirc pump?
Comments (7)Either option you describe doesn't put the water down the drain, so that's good. The 2.5 gal water heater option, though, brings up this question: if you use appreciable hot water from it, and you now have put "tons" of cold water back into it, I doubt that it would have had enough time to recover and your hot water would now be lukewarm at best. Doesn't that kinda put you back pretty close to square one? I've always preferred the recirculating pump design. And, they can be a DIY project where you may not want to plumb a water heater. The always-on pumps should be avoided for the excessive heat loss they guarantee. The timer-based pumps are better but can only approximate your habits. The demand pumps with a touch switch (or even a motion sensor!) are the ultimate but they command a hefty price. I've done a DIY demand system with a Taco pump from eBay and the Grundfos thermostatic valve from a timer-based system with my own low-voltage control for about 1/3 the price of the Metlund system. Also, be sure to insulate your hot water lines. Here is a link that might be useful: On-Demand Hot Water pumps...See Moreis plywood as economical as board lumber?
Comments (17)I'm not going to lift any 4x8 sheet of plywood anywhere. I'm going to pay the guy at the desk for my plywood, hand him my cut sheet, and then I'm going to go in the back and stand around while the guys who work the lumberyard's panel saw wrestle it around and cut it into 6.5" and 10" boards. I'm pretty sure I mentioned the lumberyard's panel saw. (I love their panel saw--it's got this huge room all to itself, with big long guides, etc. It does a beautiful job ripping plywood into boards--they've done it for me before, and the edges were beautiful. In my next life I want to live in Alabama and have a separate two-car garage, like my brother, so I can install a humongous panel saw, just because I can.) I personally only have to wrestle the 8'-long boards onto my FIL's table saw, or I will use the Kreg cutting jig w/ my jigsaw. I can lift just fine--I can't necessarily grip something sort of heavy that is biting into wood, and steer it. Maybe I'd be OK w/ a lightweight or small table saw. I like your suggestions about crosscutting, though. The first sheet lends itself to that very easily. I'll have to look at sheet #2 and see if I can minimize the number of cuts. It means paying the lumberyard for more cuts (since I can do the crosscuts on the boards easily enough), especially since by crosscutting the sheet, then I pay for twice as many rips. I also run the risk of them reading the cut sheet wrong and leaving me w/ pieces that don't work--that's been my experience w/ all sorts of things. I feel confident w/ my knowledge of what each board should turn into, so I don't really want to delegate that to someone else. I had planned to cut all the 50.5" pieces at once, so that if the guide is the tiniest bit off, at least they'll all be exactly the same size and so that I don't have to keep resetting the guides. Just because unit is boards doesn't mean I'm going to cut one board into all of its sizes all at once. I can set the excess aside while I continue the 50.5" cuts, and then do all the 18"-ers or 16.5"-ers at once. I figure the only real problem is keeping track of what piece is supposed to come out of what board--and that's what blue painter's tape and a marker (or a carpenter's pencil) is for, right? Isn't there a way to prevent veneer rip-out when crosscutting plywood? Doesn't everybody have to crosscut plywood at some point? For this project, I don't care--it's a closet shelf. But I'm curious. This post was edited by talley_sue_nyc on Mon, Jul 29, 13 at 12:06...See More- 5 years ago
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