This post keeps haunting me as I have a project in the middle of electrical changes. $65-100 assuming its during normal rough-in electric. Not including adding a switch or circuit if also needed. Double for a special trip. Why? Figure out the hourly rate for a licensed electrician. It will depend on local labor costs, but the OP I believe is in the north bay area of CA. I'm in the Sacramento region. Part 1 - Placing the receptacle - figure up to 30 minutes to place the point, assuming ceilings up to 10' tall, running the cable back to the switch, fastening it to ceiling or wall members along the way, drilling studs to pull wire through, making up the wire at each end. Part 2 - Hanging the fixture at finish - maybe another 30 minutes including unboxing and installing bulbs. Most fixtures need a little time invested prior to hanging. Some are easy, some are not. Fixtures that take more than one person to hang or have a box of crystal to attach would be more. In all, an hour plus some materials IF its simple. In the past I've created standard costs for clients to help them understand ahead of time the cost of changes, its not always perfect, but many clients prefer simplified "menus" over accurate estimates. My goal is to recover costs. I'm more than happy to build a home without change orders. I've done one with a single $360 change order for flooring. Zero electrical changes. Then there are others.... Your electrician might be coy if he doesn't yet understand the entire scope of your request. A ceiling fan at 20' is significantly different than a wall sconce, maybe double even if you provide the scaffold. The best way to avoid changes is to study your plans and get the changes included during the design stage. Its also the best way to get your home done in a timely manner.

Wow thanks for the quick reply! Yes, the vaulted ceiling will extend into the kitchen (on the other side of the wall circled) so we will continue the wood on the ceiling into the kitchen which is currently a 8’ flat ceiling. Also, I forgot to mention this is Not my furniture! ( This is the seller’s photo from Zillow -all our things are still packed up since the Reno begins in Jan, we never even unpacked. We will be living in a rv during the process, we just purchased yesterday. )

https://www.rejuvenation.com/catalog/collections/carson-12-semi-flush-fixture/products/5c3cf0b9ccf2f75089c1ddb3?cm_ven=PLA&cm_cat=Google&cm_pla=default&cm_ite=A1873&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIh83Cgf696QIVxz6tBh1LlQHXEAQYBSABEgKLxPD_BwE https://www.homedepot.com/b/Lighting-Flush-Mount-Lights/Brass/Farmhouse/N-5yc1vZc7nkZ1z0w30hZ1z17pru https://www.lumens.com/academy-semi-flushmount-by-sea-gull-lighting-SGL667658.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=PLA&utm_term=&utm_brand=Sea-Gull-Lighting&utm_id=SGL667658&utm_campaign=1440416580&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIt7mp6_-96QIVWyCtBh0xQAiaEAkYAiABEgJp2vD_BwE

It's easy for an electrician. I would recommend removing the porch hanging light that is too low over the door, buying the wall bracket conversion for it (assuming it's convertible), and installing that by the 3rd stall. Then for the porch add all recessed lighting (hopefully there is a flat ceiling, not vaulted). I would skip adding recessed lighting under the garage's pork chops/bird boxes/soffit box/box eave whatever they're called. If you don't want the wall lights anymore, you will have to fix the siding because of the siding blocks. Recessed lights won't throw light to the drive or parked cars, but you could go with directional lights mounted under those pork chops - they don't have to be the huge floodlight versions. Lights under the little awning roof is common, but that would leave the 3rd stall unlighted.