Since you asked "what would you do?", what I would do (which isn't what others here would do, and I'm not criticizing them) is to fix it with trim. Honestly, I don't think anyone will notice unless you point it out to them. My front door is trimmed below the two windows next to it and I never noticed before this post. I am very particular about a lot of things, but this isn't a battle I would choose since the cost to change is so high and the the resulting fix is so small. When we were building our home 14 years ago, we had a couple of minor probems, both of which our GC offered to pay to fix. We declined since neither were a big deal to us. If it were a question of safety, that's another story. I understand those who say make them fix it. It is your money and you're paying to get what you want. But, you're obviously thinking twice about it or you wouldn't have asked the question. Economic times are tough, and it could be one of the lowest paid workers on the job who has to end up paying for this error. Dee

It appears to be a carpenter's mistake since the intention of the design is clearly stated on the drawings. Perhaps the windows were installed before the door arrived. IMHO there is no reason to replace anything other than the narrow "picture frame" molding; it's really out of place here. Option A (cheapest) Raise the door head trim and find a way to fill the resulting gap. I would also fill the gap between the door and window jamb trims because these narrow strips of wall look amateurish to me. Option B (best) Use 3/8" or 1/2" flat trim that spans from opening to opening, then add a decorative band molding around the outer perimeter of the entire assembly. The flat part of the trim would be a bit larger at the door head but it would look fine since it's at a door not a window. If the carpenter is good he could add a cove, bevel or bead at the inner edges. That is the way triple openings have been detailed for hundreds of years so I'm surprised the architects or the builder didn't suggest it.

I have a fiberglass garage door in white, and while I love the look, the insulating qualities, & light weight (easier on the opener's motor than heavy wood), I wouldn't want it in a faux wood look. When I researched entry doors, it seemed like the big complaint about wood-look fiberglass is that it fades after time and needs to be restained periodically. I wouldn't want to do that for a big garage door. The gel staining wouldn't be too difficult, but applying the UV resistant poly coats would give me pause. A wood door's maintenance would be just as demanding, and wood is heavier (needs more powerful door openers) and is prone to warping (which is why we got rid of our old wood doors). I would think a steel door in a faux wood finish would have the same maintenance issues as fiberglass. It's not so much the door material as the coating on it -- stains & poly don't stand up to heat, sun, rain, & snow well. So just as long as you know what you're getting into. A wood look door may well be worth the effort & expense to you. And maybe your DIY skills are way better than mine! Wood garage doors seem to be the fashion now. Over in Advice, many are asking how to update their homes. The popular answers are 1. Don't paint the brick, it's a maintenance hassle; 2. Replace your garage door with a stained wood door. I question the responses because in my experience, it's the opposite: stained wood garage doors are a maintenance hassle, but painted brick is not if prepped well (is in good condition, sparkling clean and bone dry before painting).

I usually start with a single door with no sidelights and the amount of glass in the door that reflects the amount of privacy desire in the room the door opens into. I know this is off topic, but I see the arched shutters on the rectangular window, and the shutters on the tall window as both looking odd. I would hope the design decisions made on this front elevation are the same on all the other elevations