The tiled backsplash usually sits just off the countertop by an 1/8th inch or so and the gap is caulked. The caulk can be cut away and the countertop should be able to be removed without damaging the backsplash. That's in a perfect world. Some installers set the bottom course of tile right on the countertop. Less clearance. Depending on how the countertop is attached to the cabinets below, that can affect things. The shape of the counter. A straight run or and "L" shaped? Are the ends open or captured? How the countertop is constructed? A slab of stone? Or a tiled-in mud bed? Sometimes the countertop needs to be sectioned out in pieces. In general, the backsplash can usually be preserved, but getting the countertop out might be ugly, especially if it's piece by piece. So..."it depends".

Waterlox is food safe once cured I believe but you still wouldn't chop on it as it would ruin the finish. I've been going back and forth on oiling and Waterlox for quite some time and decided to try the mineral oil/wax route first... I figure if I don't like it I can always sand it down and put a finish on it. What I like about the oil is the look/feel. Also, you can always sand down with a little sanding block any marks and just re-oil. The downside would be there's more maintenance (monthly oiling) and you really need to keep it oiled to help resists stains, etc. With waterloo (or similar) water will always bead and it's easy to wipe down. You can choose their satin finish if you don't like glossy. The Craft Art website (or Waterlox site) gives detailed instructions on how to finish. There's a nice product called Clapham's Beeswax Salad bowl finish (Amazon.com) that rubs in well and got great reviews. I've tried various products on my walnut cutting board. Here are some discussions I've found VERY helpful regarding all of this. http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0116253024906.html?11 http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg012043375905.html?7 http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0913354730186.html?df796bfdf359db38a4b9594d4fad145aGq26I http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0211025631864.html http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg1214103427485.html http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0210344920885.html http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/wood/msg021053255637.html *Also, keep in mind if you decide to try another product you'd need to sand down what you already have on there.... Good luck!

devorah~~ What is Richlite?....and how expensive is it? You said that you did it yourself...was it difficult? My DH can lay the tiles...so thought it would be less costly. Bill V. said to use the granite tiles...he has used it in a lot of upscale homes...but to leave 1/32" apart and put in some grout...didn't think it would make as much difference if it was completely level. I don't know what to do....but I know we don't want to put much $$$ into this dying house market that we have going on here....just trying to hold our money together. We don't "have" to sell....but want to relocate from here. Anxious to hear back....Thanks

We have had almost the exact same issue with our corian. The builder wouldn't even come to check it only went by the pictures we sent. Then blamed it all on something "very hot" had to do that! I can tell you now, it did not. There is also a large dip or warp over the dishwasher. When we pulled it out there is absolutely no heat barrier or insulation to protect the corian. The installer also never sealed the sink basin. Which we found out the hard way when our sink overflowed. The installer/builder takes no blame Won't even come to look or tell us what we can do. There is a ten year warranty on the corian, we've been fighting this for over two years now. The ten year warranty will be up in September of this year. What can we do???