greetings; Sorry for the delay...I have been reviewing several of the (rather dated)investigations I have on conifer seed treatment using bleach as well as supplemental articles available on the internet. My conclusion in this case is that sometimes brevity without further elucidation can be misleading... I also visited some local growers to survey the retail price of cellpack inserts:($1.00 per sheet)and 2.5 inch pots:(05 cents each or 12 for the price of 10).I have found that in many instances the 32cells/sheet separated to 4 cells/with a saucer and draped with plastic wrap is a satisfactory modular set-up for indoor sowing whereby seeds are thinly sowed based upon the genetics and physiology of the cultivar.>Then pricked out to a more suitable cellpack or pot...This set-up also might help reduce cross-contamination of diseased seeds obtained through seed-exchanges.Also I would recommend the booklet on propagation published by the Brooklyn Botanic Garden...(regarding:seeds of dubious hybrid derivatives yielding weak seedlings and so forth... The 2.5 inch pot is one of the industry standards suitable for many outplanting garden situations. By surveying a local garden shop one can determine if more than one seedling/pot is feasible and note the poracity of the media that is used.A 2.5inch pot economizes media ,space, and overall expenditure...(32pots/1020 flat)which can then be halved/ spaced to 18 or less as the crop develops...If a larger size pot is required- that is rather understood... Much of the satifactory results with a 2.5inch pot are based upon timing;knowing the environment you are working with(light quality/duration)temp.growing lean(fertilizer/irrigation); proper fertilizer selection;air circulation and so forth found in any good book on seed propagation... the phytotoxicity of bleach when working with seedlings is from my own experience conferring with a senior grower long ago and reconfirmed by further reading.The information and citations at hand is modified from the original investigations > Nelson,P.V.(1978).Greenhouse Operation and Management;Moody,E.H. and G.E.Smith (1982)Sanitation:Plant Health from Start to Finish.Publ.286.Raleigh,N.C.North Carolina Extension Service:84-100

What kind of dirt is on it?.... Start out with a dust cloth....then look for some sort of cleaner with mineral spirits in it and wipe with that. I would stay away from water based products like Murphy's oil soap, because unless you are extremely careful, it may lift the veneer. If there are any breaks in the finish the moisture may seep in and lift the veneer....but if your finish is in really great shape, soap and water is OK....if you dry it quickly. solvent based cleaner is safer. Linda C

I like your idea of using the table as a workspace. I have a lot more room, and that's still what I do. I also curl up on the sofa with an end table (beverage) at times. And I like using my ottoman as a laptop holder too. Those three options are plenty for me. Do you need storage for a wireless printer somewhere?  I also like the idea of having stand-alone shelves as a divider to give your sleeping area some privacy. Unless you are in an earthquake prone area. Regardless, furniture ties are a good idea. I am in the camp of purchasing a small sofa or loveseat instead of a sectional. If you have lightweight kitchen chairs, you can move one or two for seating if you have company over. Make them nice enough for that dual purpose. You don't have to have four chairs. If you do, they don't have to match. Pairs of matching chairs are enough.  Consider shopping for outdoor furniture for your apartment. Lightweight, less expensive, very nice quality these days, can be hosed down if badly soiled. Best thing is they can be repurposed to the patio of a house someday if you are young. If you are old, the lightweight aspect is of value... And someday your kids might repurpose it for their patio. Just a thought... Might not be right for you.

Wow, thank you all for your creative ideas and feedback! For some context on the house: we are modernizing everything which includes new wires, new (cast iron) rads, new plaster, new floors… The look of these wardrobes I don’t want to keep - and seems an easy enough job to repaint & refinish the doors and add new hardware. To be clear my main concern is how to “clean up the insides” - if the rest of the room is fresh & new I don’t feel like we’ll have the right access to update the walls and floor on the inside of the wardrobes without removing them first since they were just built on top of everything… @Jilly I do love that example from Browson Design and Build (Lucy Williams’ house) - definitely in my moodboard! Funny how the IKEA pax is so polarizing! I do recognize that these old closets aren’t the best use of the space, do feel that starting again might be the best way and @acm appreciate the sentiment that it maybe futile to reuse these 🙃 Don’t worry, the bed was a temporary IKEA bed we used before the renovation, it will probably end up in a guest room somewhere! Love the ideas to add the poofs @mytwo cents