I have no answers but am following this thread.

How handy are you and how bad are the windows...work it out from there.

I have done 3 rooms of wood windows so far as a novice DIYer and I have some thoughts.

Check out the book Saving America's Windows. I also recommend Killian Hardware if you need supplies. Consider the order of operations and the dry time on your products.

Yes, it is worth 'doing right' to strip, sand, prime, reglaze, paint, then add metal weatherstripping. I have about a 10% success rate in keeping the glass intact, although I try every single time. Alas, our neighborhood hardware store will measure, sell and glaze the glass for a $5 upcharge and I happily let them do it.

Do you have a dedicated space you can set a window and continuously come back to it or do you have to put it away and sweep up every day? Make sure you have a work table at the right height so you're not straining yourself. The time consuming thing for me was that our interior sides are stain grade. So that meant stripping with a heat gun, then chemical (I like the toxic methyl chloride for working on windows outdoors, but use citristrip for indoor trim) then sand, and sand, and inevitably sand out !@#$%^& swirl marks. If I were re-painting it would be so much easier.

It's a messy project but not technically difficult. But my attention to it has waned and I'm really going to have to do some windows next year.

Is your interior trim in good shape or do you have to restore that too?

I realize that I didn't exactly answer your question but hopefully some tips to make it was efficient as possible for you!

I'm very handy.

Windows are mostly worn paint job, doesn't look like a lot of rot. Some broken panes. Some painted shut. Some dropped weights. I haven't been up close and too personal with them, as it's a house we're buying.

Interior trim has layers of paint. Do you need to strip all that too?

I have a large workspace (20x40, my 1/3 of the pole barn) I can spread things out in. Willing to build a steam box and invest in a few tools to make it go faster, as there are 32 freaking windows.

Love the idea of paying a glass shop to reglaze. I'm going to look into that.

Anyone willing to give me a time estimate?

I would venture to guess, DIY probably 2-3 days per window to complete the entire restoration average.

millworkman, that sounds like a good guess, but how long is a day? lol!

weedyacres, my only related experience was in attempting to re-glaze and repaint my large storm windows. Getting off the loose glazing was easy enough, but I eventually gave up on trying to remove what seemed immovable old glaze, for fear of breaking all the glass. If you do it yourself, I'd definitely research for specialty tools to do removal of old glaze and application of new.

@weedyacres <Interior trim has layers of paint. Do you need to strip all that too?>

The only places you *need* to strip and repaint are where the window operates, so you have surfaces that glide easily and stay in alignment. But how the finished window looks would certainly be marred if the surrounding trim is peeling/cracked/overdone.

Old windows do not need to be completely stripped nor does all the glazing need to come out. How far you go depends on the window and your expectations.

We hired a gentleman recommended through our local historical home society. They were a great source for contractors that specialize in older home restoration. Unless you want the windows the original wood there is no need to strip them down.

We had three windows taken and repaired, and the rest weather stripped and restrung. I think it was a couple of weeks to have them all done and it was not too pricy. I remember it was about under $3,000 for all the windows including the repairs.

Maybe the happy medium here is to focus on repair of any broken panes, repair or reglaze only as needed, re-rope all the weights, and add weatherstripping. The outsides need a lot of painting, but I can probably skip most of the insides.

I need to research weatherstripping options. Any recommendations?

https://www.doublehungwindowrestoration.com/weather-stripping.html

This is nice stuff but takes a bit of work.

https://www.zoro.com/national-guard-weatherstrip-36inl-nails-43cb-36x86/i/G1600335/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping%20feed&utm_content=free%20google%20shopping%20clicks&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsoPBqpzI8wIVTT6tBh2TtAG5EAQYAiABEgIhOvD_BwE

This works to, not as nice but easier.

https://www.reflectwindow.com/products/wood-window-bulb-300-inch-weatherseal?variant=29518228029558&currency=USD&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3aDm4pzI8wIV7D6tBh0MKgkcEAQYAiABEgIyDPD_BwE

I like using this on the bottom of the lower sash, the top of the upper sash and at the check rail with either of the 2 above on the jambs. Simple with the right tools.

I thought I'd report back and answer my own original question. The first set of 4 windows/8 sashes took just under 10 hours per window. That included:

• removal
• scrape and paint frames
• completely strip and deglaze sashes
• some wood repair with epoxy
• sand, prime, glaze, and paint sashes
• reinstallation including re-roping

These were only painted on the outside, so no stripping on the inside. I'm working on my second set now, which were painted on both sides and I have more time in on the stripping. I also need to make a steam box, because while much of the glazing is falling apart, there are chunks that are very stubborn and take careful scraping and pulverizing to get off.

I'm also going to finish paint (instead of just prime) the inside of the sashes before glazing, to avoid the painstaking cutting in next to the glass, at least on one side.

This first set of windows was in the attic, which we're finishing, and had no weatherstripping. When I removed the first downstairs set, I was happy to find that they had the interlocking metal weatherstripping, so we won't have any additional cost there. I'll probably buy some spring bronze for the upstairs windows since there are only 4. At least for the sides, and then those bulbous silicone seals for the top and bottom.

Looks like you”ll be pushing 400 hours plus materials. What are the storm windows like?

Should be under 300 hours, as 7 of the windows are just single-sash, fixed pane (dormer and basement), and 2 are aluminum (on a back porch) that we'll either leave or just replace with vinyl.

No storms. Just hooks where they used to be.

I thought the finish painting had to go on top of the glazing. To protect it.

Yes, but the glazing is on the outside. I'll paintstakingly [sic] paint the outsides over top of the glazing. But on the inside of the sashes, as well as top and bottom edges, there's no reason I can't paint the 2 coats of finish paint before I glaze.