Hey to all! Thanks again for all the suggestions & advice. I had been hitting a lot of dead ends with my issue before I found this forum. I really do like the mower for the most part. The hydro drive pulls like a mule, and the engine is top notch too. roadbike is right about mulching, and I would gladly mulch twice a week if the weather allowed. I have found it mows MUCH better in grass that hasn't over grown, but the rain just doesn't let up. One of the reasons I chose this mower is that it can be set up as high as 4". St. Augustine grass should really be cut from 3.5" - 4". The first time I called Honda about this, the rep told me that because the deck is a hi-vac design, it relies on the suction created by the blade & deck, and in order for this to happen the deck needs to be close to the ground. His advice was to lower the deck to a height of 3" or less if necessary. According to him, the higher settings allow the blades to draw more air in from the sides instead of up through the grass. He had no explanation when I asked why a 4" cutting height is an option then. Mike - can yours be set up to 4"? One dealer told me that was a new feature this year. What is your grass like up there - wide or narrow blades? I'm originally from Illinois, and some varieties there as almost as fine as hair. Sorry, I assumed you had just recently gotten your mower too. I didn't realize it is 4 years old, and been doing this. Seems they'd have come up with a fix or different design in that amount of time. I've wondered if they don't need to design a blade that can handle higher RPMs, and just increase the engine speed a couple hundred revs. While the engine doesn't appear to labor except in really heavy grass, it seems that maybe the blade simply needs to spin faster, and create more of an upward draw. Either that, or do like Snapper, and make a blade to which you can bolt "paddles" to increase lift. I must say though that Honda's blade set does equally as well with bagging as it does with mulching. I was very impressed at how much grass it put in the catcher in just a couple passes. This is my 2nd Honda, so I know they usually make good stuff. I'm just surprised & disappointed because my 1st one doesn't leave uncut grass like this. I guess its a tradeoff though because the new one doesn't leave any trails or blobs when I mulch in heavy grass.

OK. Listen up people. In the 60s oils were developed for Jet aircraft which operated in the extreme cold (like -50) at 35000 + feet and yet could handle the extreme operating temperatures ( 300 + degrees ) generated by the jet turbine engine, basically a giant blowtorch. These are what we now know as "Synthetic" oil or hydraulic fluid. I live in Northern Canada where in the winter I have experienced -55 degrees F. and summer temperatures of 120F. Cold Temperatures such as this cause oil not to flow where needed, to seals and bearings and bushings, and to seize or wear out or just break or don't function. Synthetic fluid continues to flow at these extremely low temperatures, therefore the components are lubricated, do not dry up, and do not break. As well the load on your starter is less, quick start without overheating your electricals. Very high temperatures (+80) have a similar effect on normal oil by causing it to break down from the engine/system heat into it's constitute parts and thereby lose lubricity. Synthetic oils do not break down inl heat, again all the parts are lubricated and can withstand the loads on them. I know it is much more money to run Synthetic fluids, but the savings in time, Repairs, and frustration is worth it. Synthetic fluid costs more, but your change intervals are longer, therefore it works out to about the same. When you first use Synthetic you will find everything starts to loosen up and work much easier. It is important to choose the right Synthetic for each load application. Here in Canada, Toyota now uses only their Synthetic at about $5.00/ quart on their vehicles since their research proved that it worked better, and they had fewer service recalls. I change my Synthetic every three months, my hydraulic fluid once a year. At -40 my Kubota starts every time and runs better than the day I bought it used. If you can't afford to use Synthetic all the time, just replacing one quart in your engine with Synthetic will cause wonders. All the best, lubricate and save on repairs.

I think that there are millions of people out there that don't have any trouble but also millions that end up scrapping their mowers because it is almost pointless to put them on Craigslist. Let's face it. There are a lot of people who should not be allowed anywhere tools or machinery. They never read Op Manuals, know how to use a grease gun or bother to change oil in their engine. They buy stuff, use it until it quits and then put it out at the curb for pick-up. They go back to the box store buy a new one and perpetuate the cycle. There are also people who think that a Deere lawn tractor is capable of the same work that a full-sized Deere Ag tractor is. They disregard the "lawn tractor" description and use it to jerk old shrubs and tree stumps out of the ground along with numerous other tasks that the tractor was never built to perform. The item that takes the most abuse is the trans-axle because that's what links the engine power to the ground. Someone figured out that average property owner puts 50 hours per year on their tractor. Ten years of average use equals 500 hours. The engines used in these tractors are supposed to give 1000 hours of use before needing rebuilding but that's based on the owner changing oil, filters and performing other routine maintenance diligently over that time-frame. The main problem with the low-end tractors these days is the hydro. The manufacturers decided to make the hydro's a sealed unit. Presumably, that was done to put an end to owners that put the wrong oil into the hydro's and also contaminated them with dirt and water out of sheer carelessness. Sounds like a plan but the only people it benefited were the hydro builders and the tractor manufacturers because of frivolous warranty claims. The problem with that idea is this. Thanks to time and heat, multi-grade oil begins to break down and change viscosity. When that happens, the hydro no longer performs as it should and if there are no drain and fill plugs, then life is not good for the tractor owner. The oil is critical because that's what transmits engine hp from the hydro's pump to the hydro's drive motor, just as the driveshaft in a car transmits engine HP from the transmission to the rear end and ultimately the rear tires. For the most part, these lawn tractors are pretty good machines providing the owners take proper care of them and use them as a lawn tractor was designed to be used. If I owned one, then it would have an hour meter on it for sure. After every two years of use, I would remove the trans-axle from the tractor, hang it upside down and let all the oil drain out of it for a couple of days. Then I would refill it with the correct oil and put it back into the tractor for another two years. When you do that, you are not only replacing the partially worn out oil but you are also removing contaminants that are in suspension in that oil due to the detergents the oil manufacturers add. High-end hydro's have oil filters to look after that problem. Low-end one's don't. No matter which brand of LT you choose, all you are truly buying is the name because 90 percent of the tractor's components are made by companies other than the one whose label adorns the hood. You are relying on them to select decent engines, trans-axles, tires, rims, electrical components, bearings, rod ends, springs, nuts, bolts, washers, drive belts and so on for your tractor. They just stamp out the chassis and some other metal bits and pieces before assembling everything. Find a dealer in your area that has an impeccable word-of-mouth reputation and buy your tractor from him. Get to know him because box store employees come and go and box stores do not perform warranty work on what they sell. They rely on the very dealer you should be doing business with so just cut out the middleman. Go and sit on all the tractor brands and if possible, test drive them if they have a used unit around or a demonstrator. Searching the internet is helpful but we all know that happy owners don't post on the internet but disgruntled ones do because they want to get even. Take your time, do your homework and then decide which brand you like, which deck width best suits your property and which dealer you feel really good about. It's your money and it's not chump change. You and that tractor will hopefully be married for at least ten years so this should be more than just an over-night fling. Think with the big head, not the small one. LOL

I can't believe what I am hearing about the MTD Hydo trans. I have a ranch in Montana. I cut a 3 acres every 2 weeks (11 times a year) It has so many hills I have to ride my 42" cut yard machine side saddle most of the time. I have rolled it 3 times in 14 years of use! I am installing a new (pivot bar) (front Axle) now because 14 years of use has reamed out the axle shafts. (this is a pressed metal pivot bar. Not cast iron. That being said. I have way over 800 hours on the engine (B&S 17.5 hp) and the MTD Hydrostatic tranny. NEITHER HAVE GIVEN ME ANY TROUBLE (AT ALL). I have never changed the oil in the tranny (factory says it's a sealed unit) and I believe them. I have used 3 MTD tractors on my years in the last 40 years! I have sold all of them for 1/2 of what I paid for them. (I did have one B&S engine throw a rod at 250 hrs. Cost $357 in 1993 to get a new long block and 5 hrs to change the motor. My neighbor bought a $4000 JD the same time I bought this mower in 2002. It lasted 3 years and the Kaw. motor blew. He went to JD and they said. That was a really bad motor. We don't replace them and have no other motor to put on your mower. AND we no longer support the trans. on your JD. So he sold it for $600 for parts and was out $3600! (By the way JD said it was really a bad mower they shouldn't have built. But they would be glad to sell him a good one this time. (no discounts mind you!) Ha ha. My little old $1200 (with bags) in 2002 MTD is still running today. So if it runs like a Deere I'd run to the nearest MTD dealer and get a good mower. One with a Hydrostatic trans. that will last I think forever. But I can guarantee you it will last 800 hard hours of use! With no maintenance at all! (Sealed unit) remember. I truly think the MTD lawn tractors are the best value for the dollar of anything I have ever purchased in the past 40 years! Other than my MTD weed eater, but that is another story! You who are look between that auto CVT and the Hydro. GO WITH THE HYDRO. (SEALED UNIT) You will not be sorry! From a 40 year user of MDTS!