Considering we did a pretty darn similar set of colors, I'll give you some recommendations and photos. Actually, our floors are provincial from Minwax and our all around wall color is Crisp Linen White from Glidden (color matched in Olympic). Here's probably the best photo of just the wall and floor Better shot of the kitchen (except the blurry light gunk on the lens) I would suggest you look at Sea Salt from SW for a muted green/blue, maybe Palladian Blue from BM, we used both of these colors (again matched in Olympic zero VOC) in our upstairs bath. Terrible construction photo, in terrible light, but Palladian blue on outer wall, Sea Salt in the tub area. SS is just a bit lighter and less blue. Palladian Blue main area: Sea Salt around tub (poor lighting, I know):

Hard without knowing exact shades and your style and the whole concept you're going for, so totally agree with others-nothing will be as helpful as seeing your pics Without that crucial info-I can tell you so many colors your leather can be and work beautifully..whites/off whites, tan, blue, purple, green, pink..you see what's happening here? too many possibilities(and lascatx is right-generally speaking,you pay more if you want more "non-standard" color, not always but in most cases..not without exceptions though, and Macy's, with its limited choice, is indeed an exeption, somewhat. ) but many possibilities are nice to have too:) I personally love leather in colors..and find it much more versatile to use against different backgrounds/with many pallettes, than, say, something like black. (coming from someone who has more leather seating than she'd like to have lol..I've aubergine, off white, sunflower yellow, brick red..ready to switch some of these, at this point, frankly..I covered couple of armchairs as to have other textures, you know. they're obviously not situated in one room either..but one gets tired of leather after 20 years, even though of course it's immensely user friendly))) please post your pics if you want more specific advice/suggestions of stores, etc and whatever your style is-the lines is the most important thing (well and quality of course)..pleasing lines, good lines, whatever color you go for

That is some SERIOUS movement! Wow. Diva floors for sure! Here are somethings that might make this more difficult than anticipated (by homeowner and hardwood flooring professional alike): 1. Exotic hardwoods are often VERY hard (as in they chew up and/or kill machines that try to work on them...like sanding machines) 2. Exotics are often very oily; which can make staining a bit of a chore 3. Factory finished floors like the one's in the photo often have aluminum oxide finishes = very difficult to remove during sanding (your photos do NOT show the 'normal' look of AO....but it is entirely possible it is there). It is possible a highly trained professional hardwood flooring refinisher can deal with this. It is also possible you won't find anyone who will even try. It really is "luck of the draw" when it comes to FINDING the high-end (ahem...expensive) flooring professional. And then it is another luck of the draw if said professional has the ability/tools/time to deal with this floor. If we assume the WORST case scenario (all three issues listed above are present) here's how it will play out: 1. You will find the very expensive professional who has dealt with this before and has SUCCESSFULLY stained/refinished an exotic like this. They will probably cost MORE than $5/sf for a REGULAR sand/refinish (like white oak). 2. Said professional will come in and realize you have aluminum oxide on the floor. That means an 'up charge' of $2/sf (going rate) to sand off AO finish. This also takes a day or two longer to accomplish (hence the up charge) 3. The exotic is deemed to be SUPER hard = another $2/sf up charge for all the extra machine work needed (hard exotics chew up sanding discs like they are Smarties). Again another day is added to the event. 4. The exotic in question is super oily making staining a MUCH more difficult event...but the professional gets it done to your satisfaction (the floor now looks 'painted') and because of the oiliness the polyurethane has to be chosen with care. Again you are looking at another $1-$2 up charge. If you are lucky, and everything works out, the Pro will only charge you the $2 up charge for sanding/removing the AO finish and not the other up charge for dealing with a super hard exotic. If we look at the math, $5/sf + $2/sf + $2/sf = $9/sf. It would be cheaper to paint the floor black and save up for another floor. Or it would be FASTER to remove the floor ($2/sf to remove) and then replace with $7/sf factory finished hardwood ($3/sf for install) = $12/sf. And there is something no one has discussed: the gapping between the planks. The floor has shrunk during the winter...which tells me the humidity in the home is not being maintained...and that tells me the HVAC system does NOT have the capacity to ADD humidity during the winter time. If you want a new hardwood floor in this home (which would be my recommendation) you will also need to UPDATE (ie. spend more money) on the home humidity control. That is an expense most people do not look at when looking at hardwood floors. In the end, I'm only speculating on how difficult this wood is going to be (and speculating on expense) to refinish. You won't know the ACTUAL cost until someone comes in and tells you their costs.

OK...first thing first: What is your TOTAL BUDGET for this refresh? It sounds like you want to make ++ changes to colours/presentation but not to layout of the kitchen. The average cost of sand/refinish hardwood floors = $5/sf. Your 2000sf of wood flooring should be very close to $10K which it is. Personally I would ask if the quote is for OIL BASED finish or for the HIGH END water based products such as Bona Traffic HD or Loba 2K Supra AT. The OIL BASED turns yellow/orange. Which is what you have right now. And yes those floors need a refinish. They needed it 5 years ago. Compare that to a new hardwood floor (factory finished): Cost of material $10/sf (for the good stuff). Cost of removal of old hardwood $2/sf (includes disposal). Cost of subfloor preparation $2/sf. Cost of labour for installation $3/sf. Total costs: $17/sf. Which is more than TRIPLE the cost of a refinish. That's closer to $34,000. Hmmmmm. Now we add in the cost of new counter tops: $15K - $20K (depending on your choice). Cost of new appliances: $7K. Your kitchen refresh is already at $20K or more. Painting cabinets: another $10K or so... Here's my advice: Sand/refinish the flooring. Purchase new appliances. Move in. Leave the countertops as they are. Leave the cabinets as they are. Once the floors are finished and the appliances are replaced, you will have a fully functional home. If you sand down the red oak and have it finished (no stain) in a clear coat water based finish you can preserve the 'wheat' colour that red oak is famous for. That colour should be a nice compliment to the kitchen cabinets. Maple cabinets are a higher quality finish. The white counter tops are a beautiful compliment to maple. A crisp white is one of the best complimentary countertops for maple. I would leave them be for a year or two. You might find the kitchen needs the brightness of the counter tops. But you won't know that until you move in and start fixing meals in that kitchen.