I've installed several of the Kohler CI shower receptors. For clarity...the bottom edge of the tile isn't supposed to be 5/8" above the top of the receptor. The tile backer board is held a minimum of 5/8" above the top of the receptor. The tile itself can go lower. Whenever the tiles get kicked out like that, it's a sign that your wall studs needed to be furred out before the backer board got installed over the studs. Or as Bill wrote, another layer of cement board could have been put over the first. Your wall simply needed to be "thicker." I furr the studs by ripping strips off the edge of a 2x4 to whatever thickness is needed. Usually 3/16" give or take. It depends on the tolerances used in the initial wall framing. Those strips go right on the exposed edges of the studs to furr the wall out a bit. Then the backer board gets installed. Then the tile get set with no interference from the radius of the receptor's flange. Look at the diagrams at the top of page 8 in this pdf, you can see the furring strips, or "shims" between the wall studs and the tile backer board: http://www.us.kohler.com/webassets/kpna/catalog/pdf/en/1009404_2.pdf

There are basically three methods used to mount the angle stop valves. 1. Solder type 2. 1/2"NPT Thread mount 3. 5/8" compression mount. In new construction the angle stops are generally installed during the final trim out phase of the plumbing, which generally occurs after the painting or wall finishing phase. At this stage there is a very high risk of causing damage to the wall finish if we were to install the solder on type or to solder a thread adapter on the stub out. For this reason most plumbers elect to use the 5/8" compression type which only requires a simple mechanical connection. To install the compression type angle stops the stub out is cut to the desired length, then the compression nut is slide on the stub out, followed by the brass ferrule and finally the valve is slipped on. With the valve held firmly in its final location, the ferrule and compression nut is then slide out to the valve and tightened finger tight. Once the compression nut is finger tight the plumber uses two wrenches, one to hold the valve steady while the second wrench is used to tighten the compression nut. As the compression nut is tightened the inner brass ferrule is slightly compressed into the wall of the copper pipe thereby locking it firmly in place. When changing compression mount angle stops many people make the mistake of attempting to pull the ferrule and old nut off the copper stub out and usually in doing so they distort the shape of the copper making it very difficult to get a tight seal with the new nut and ferrule. A much simpler and more reliable method is to unscrew the compression nut then slide the old valve off the copper pipe leaving the original ferrule and compression nut on the pipe. You then remove the compression nut and ferrule from the new valve and slide the new valve on the pipe, tightening it in place with the original nut. While this method does not work 100% of the time, as a rule it will work most of the time and certainly bears trying before you begin cutting the pipe or trying to remove the old ferrule. When tightening the compression nut you can use a pair of channel locks to hold the valve steady, but when doing so be sure to pad the valve with a rag first so the teeth of the channel locks does not scratch the finish. I find an open end wrench to most convenient to tighten the nuts in a tight space. (I especially prefer my Craftsman ratcheting open end wrench.) When selecting angle stop valves I use the solid brass 1/4 turn ball valves exclusively. The ball valves have the advantage that they are quick acting full bore valves and they are also have the advantage that when turned they are self cleaning which is a distinct advantage in areas where mineral scale builds up on internal valve parts. I will probably open a real can of worms here, but My first choice of supply lines is chrome plated brass tubing with the cone washers that come supplied in your faucet set and the compression nut and ferrule that comes supplied with your new angle stops. I have seen copper or brass tubing supply lines that have been in continuous service in commercial applications for 20 or 30 years and they still work fine. My absolute last choice would be the stainless steel brain lines. While the stainless steel braid gives the illusion of being some kind of high tech space age strength and durability in the final analysis many of those lines are the absolute weakest link of all the choices. It is true that the stainless steel braid will prevent a line from blowing out, but when we consider that the maximum allowable line pressure is 85psig, the chances of any lines actually blowing out is slim to none. On the other hand, what most people don't know is that a vast majority of those stainless steel braid lines has nothing more than a stainless steel braid over a cheap neoprene hose. Under certain water conditions neoprene has a relatively short service life as is evidence by the failure rate of neoprene toilet flapper valves. In regions where they have problems with the water deteriorating the neoprene I prefer to use chrome plated brass lines with the factory preformed cone washers that are made out of nylon.

Thanks to all for your suggestions. To clarify a couple of points raised. The wall behind the right third of the range is even and level with everything to the right of the range. I believe it's because it's one piece of sheetrock that comes to the frame behind that part of the range. The left 2/3 of the range is slightly skewed or recessed. Again, I think it's because there's a new piece of sheetrock and slightly recessed framing behind that part of the range and wall (apparently the framing wasn't touched by the new contractors and it was an unevenness that existed with the house). In any case, the range can never be flush because there are 2 "different walls" behind it. I like the thought of covering the gap with SS to make it look like a filler piece that likely won't get noticed and will cover the gap, as well as cost much less. The contractors actually suggested that as well as a possibility. By the way, our contractors did everything except floors and granite. The granite and floor guys were great - they actually noticed other areas of unevenness but because there was no continuous granite, I think the granite guy didn't notice it and simply squared each piece of granite to each respective piece of wall. We've discussed the "should" of the contractor having to cover it. We'll see now if they do what they should because they should have caught this earlier. Depressing, sad, etc... The thing is, the contractors are actually really good, creative, etc. -- they are just CARELESS and HASTY. It's the craftsmanship that seems to be lacking these days. BUT, we're just about done and will post pictures of the final product soon. Thanks again.

I'd cross post this in the Kitchen forum for some ideas on layout. You have a lot of space to work with. A larger version of your plan with readable measurements or individual sections will help. 450 footcandles at the counter for work surfaces is good to shoot for. Under cabinet lights can help. You have a lot of pendants over that slim island. Those Liteline fixtures are used in RVs and boats where there isn't any space above the ceiling. But they do put out light at up to 600 lumens for 9w. If you want to see them in action visit an RV dealer. A 5th wheel like a Montana or Jayco Pinnacle will also give you a feel for a slim island. For ambient light you can use 6" recessed IC fixtures and regular A19 bulb configuration leds. These are maybe $4ea in dimmable at Costco. They use 15w and produce 1100 lumens in a flood pattern that lights up a large area.