Sadly your photos are dinky and when I click on them I just get an error message. Agree that underwatering is far more likely (never managed once to overwater one of these... even in sloggy cool soil).

Mahalo, ParadisePrincess! Great advice from Hyn. Photos really do help. I advise that you use your judgement. Adeniums are succulents and hold a tremendous amount of water in their roots, caudex, and stems. This is why you can leave them out of their pots for two months. It is also the reason why you cannot allow them to remain wet too long or they can succumb to rot. There is a soil volume vs plant mass principle that applies to all succulents. You never want to plant a succulent in more soil volume than necessary because the soil will retain water longer, increasing the chances for rot. Succulents like to drink up and dry out ... We say they don't like "wet feet." When you repot, simply leave approximately 1" of space on all sides at the widest part of the plant, usually at the roots. When it comes to soil, you have to make amendments that work for your region. Be careful with soil that hardens. I have given adeniums to my neighbors with clear instructions on substrate. The ones who chose to use local ready mixes have tiny plants in contrast to those who continue to use the loose soil I gave them. Our regions are similar ... I am in the US Caribbean. Soil-less substrate does not work for me. My plants wilt in it because we receive very high lumen, scorching sun. I am currently using a fast draining substrate for all my succulents: equal parts soil, perlite, pine bark, with 1/4 part gritty river sand. To that, you can add compost and, in smaller amounts, worm castings, lava rock, activated charcoal (not BBQ briquettes), etc. Beginning at age 1 month, it is a good practice to fertilize weekly at 1/4 strength, as these are heavy feeders. Alternately, you can feed monthly. In terms of pots, clay always wins hands-down because of their looks and porosity. They allow the roots to breathe, particularly in hot climates. Plastic pots do not breathe and temperatures at the root level can increase significantly. That said, it is my practice to grow my plants in plastic pots for two reasons: they are inexpensive and they do not overly constrict ... they expand with the plant. Once I see the pot of older plants deforming, I know it's time to repot. I grow from seed and they remain in plastic pots until approximately age 3 years, which is full maturity. I am considering "forever pots" for next year ,,, they will be clay. I grow my babies in yogurt cups, which I find perfect up to age 4 months. Then they go into 3" pots and on from there. Each plant grows differently per its genetics. I have little runts in 4" pots that are almost a year old! Just use the 1" around the widest part of the plant principle and you won't go wrong. If you plant an adenium in-ground in your region, it can easily grow 6' within 2 years ... The soil has to be very loose and you have to plant in a quick draining area that doesn't hold stagnant water. My neighbor used fallen leaves from her garden mixed into the soil bed with excellent results. Our ground soil is naturally layered soil, sand, and red clay. Maria Elena

Tomatoes are resilient. Unless you're rough and breaking roots, when exactly you pot up isn't going to make or break your season. As for potting medium, etc. it doesn't make a huge difference. I've used seed starter, I've used Miracle Gro given to me by a relative who had no use for a big bag of it, etc. As long as it's not soil but a mix for indoor/container plants, it should work. The big issue with non-seed-starter mixes is that they might have fungus gnats in them, which can wreak havoc on your seedlings by eating their roots and carrying pathogens that cause damping off and become a real annoyance in the home. I always have water with mosquito bits or mosquito dunks soaking in them to use to water all my indoor plants, and I have no fungus gnat problems and haven't had anything at all damp off since. Not even notorious seedlings like basil. Re: fertilizer--if they look like they need it, I fertilize. If not, I don't. I find that I don't really need to if I use something like Miracle Gro. If I use sterile seed starter, I usually end up fertilizing lightly when I pot up with a dilute water soluble fert. I start off my seeds in 1.5" x 1.5 "x 2" cells, then when they're about at the point where the second set of true leaves is starting to come in, I pot them up into SOLO cups and, weather permitting, start to harden them off. They grow really quickly during the hardening off process so that they're a totally decent size when I finally plant them out. Sometimes, if things in the garden aren't on schedule, they live outdoors in the SOLO cups for a little longer. But that's when things are going according to plan. When they're not, I've planted out 2" plants with one true leaf and I've planted out plants pushing a foot and a half, and they've all done fine. Tomatoes may be prima donnas when it comes to disease, but they're tough little plants otherwise and fairly forgiving.

Looks like you might have nodules on the roots. Though the plant doesn't look ill. I'm not sure if the nodules are caused by a symbiotic, possibly helpful, microbe. Or, the plant might be indifferent about them. Or, they could be caused by another pest. I'm not sure what kind of succulent you have. Anyway, the plant doesn't look ill so if it were mine I'd treat it for the small white worms you saw, let the roots callous and then repot it in a gritty mix that will dry out between waterings. After a change of culture (drier soil mix and less watering) the nodules might dry up.