Maples are very sensitive to ANYTHING disturbing or compacting the soil where their shallow roots are growing. They want plenty of air getting to their roots. Bricks would be an absolute no-no! A light, airy mulch like pine straw; or a nice, well behaved ground cover like Vinca minor is the best bet. Vinca is stunning in the spring, when its covered in soft purple flowers. It looks fabulous with clumps of daffodils popping up through it. 'Flower Record' is a favorite of mine, and naturalizes beautifully. White petals with a yellow cup edged in orange ruffles. Imagine that hovering over a sea of tiny purple blooms. Regards, K4

I took four softwood cuttings of a Japanese maples last August or September and rooted them as described below. By the time winter came, I thought they were gonners, but I didn't get around to tossing the container. This spring I have leaves on 3 of the four (and roots, of course.) Thoroughly clean and sterilize a 2 liter pop bottle. Cut it horizontally 5" up from the bottom. Drill 5 drainage holes in the bottom. Fill it with well moistened pro potting mix. Poke a hole in the middle of the potting mix with a pencil. Take softwood cutting made at an angle. I don't remember using rooting hormone, but you could. Stick the cutting into the pencil hole then firm the soil around it. Here's the key: You must keep it warm and moist, but definitely not hot or wet. Tape the top half of the bottle back onto the bottom. Keep bottle lid in place, but remove once a week to let new air in. I have since read that some put ventilation holes in the tops of their bottles, but I didn't. I put my bottles on the SE corner of the house in dappled shade; morning sun. Voila. 6 months later I had rooted cuttings. Good luck! And remember...You can't win if you don't enter.

I wish I had better news. If the fellow has not leafed out by now I'd expect the worst. If there are any viable sprouts iff the trunk above the graft line they may be trainable into tree form again. It is a long process though

welcome wanda.. perhaps you should have started your own new post ... then at least.. replies could be set to come to your email... anyway .... im not rereading all the above.. but the first thing that pops into my mind.. is that a mature tree has put it roots at the surface.. because that is favorable to the tree .... adding a little soil above those roots.. is only going to encourage those roots to resurface again ... though i tree time.. it will be a very long time before you see big roots there ... but you might start seeing fine feeders roots.. faster than you might imagine.. a year or two in tree time .... and every time you dig a hole below the new soil ... and into those roots.. the tree will respond by putting new feeder roots into the new and fresh soil ... not to mention those roots cut due to the garage construction ... should you try it.. of course ...perhaps it will work ...and even if in a few years.. the plants seem to be struggling.. you can always move them somewhere else ... hosta are water hogs.. and if you ever start noticing.. them wilting... and you just cant seem to water enough ... then you have tree root problems... but there are many other things that will grow there.. [and dont stain that brick works with ugly water ... the plants arent worth it...] ken btw: i would make the bed as wide as the brick work.... i think it would add some symmetry ... it would look pleasing to the eye ... rather than a 2 or 3 foot ribbon of soil ...