Hi Holly, you're welcome! If you try soft wood cuttings, the wraps won't work. You'll need to either do something like Mel Hulse suggested in The Rose Rustler's Tool Kit (linked below), or the bottle method others have had success with and has been offered here on the forums. My micro climate doesn't work covering cuttings and it's arid enough that uncovered, most soft wood cuttings fail, so I can't offer you advice on that method. If the material you wrapped wasn't sufficiently dormant, it may not have contained sufficient stored nutrients to carry it through the rooting process. They won't absorb nor generate food until they have roots and leaves, so the several weeks required between cutting and wrapping them, and formation of new leaves and roots all require the food the cuttings already contain. That's why in my garden (climate) I don't have success with most until late December to mid January as they don't shut down enough to contain what they need until then. In particularly warmer "winters", they may not store enough nutrients at all, as they never really "shut down". In colder climates, they could probably be successfully wrapped earlier and even much later than here because they remain dormant longer. Mine began growing and flowering in February, so my window was quite short this year. I did have success with cuttings taken from my sister's garden in Newhall up in the Santa Clarita Valley, where it's been colder so the roses didn't begin pushing until a few weeks after mine did here in Encino. If you're seeing roots out the soil bottoms, sure, lift them higher, exposing more of the cuttings. You might want to do that first while leaving them in the dappled light, unless it's very damp/humid in your garden. In wetter conditions, you can safely put them in greater sunlight without the fear of them frying. I'm experiencing a bit of fry now that it's getting a lot more intense, but the only ones not succeeding are the ones I expected to have issues with. I wrapped some I've never had much luck with to see if that would vary from year to year. I also wrapped material which wasn't in the greatest shape to experiment. Those are the ones which aren't doing as well, but most are coming along as I expected them to. A few probably too well! The Smart and Final (great place!) 16 oz foam cups are what I've found the most cost effective and easiest to use until they out grow that size. Then I put them into gallons, but the 16 oz size is fine for quite a few weeks and I'm getting my third year of use out of most of them so they're particularly cost effective. Good luck! Kim Here is a link that might be useful: The Rose Rustler's Toolkit

There are three terms you might benefit from understanding. "Dormant", "soft wood", "hard wood". Dormant in my climate means wood which is removed in late winter/early spring BEFORE the plant begins pushing foliage and flowers. Some years that period seems not to occur, most years, it does. Hard wood is the growth BENEATH that which has most recently flowered. Sometimes it has older foliage on it, others, it doesn't. Sometimes that can be "dormant". Soft wood are the most recent flowering stems, usually those which have recently shed their petals. Wrapping, or "The Burrito Method", traditionally works most successfully with dormant material, though it CAN work wtih hard wood cuttings under optimum conditions. Most often, methods such as the "baggie", "terarium", mist, etc., require soft wood material, that which has recently borne a flower after the bloom has fallen. Dormant and hard wood material is "harder", it won't wilt easily and is usually more durable against harsher conditions. Its buds are more "dormant", requiring more time to mature before being stimulated into growing. Soft wood wilts rather easily as it is "softer", more juvenile. It usually contains more readily available nutrients, hormones, auxins, etc. which push new foliage and flowers. Under ideal conditions, it can often root very quickly. When I volunteered at The Huntington Library, propagating for the sales and gardens, I used soft wood material under their mist propagation set up. A flowering stem which had recently shed its petals could root under the usual summer conditions in the mist table in seven to ten days. Hard wood took several weeks under mist. Hard wood and dormant cuttings over winter in the green houses required three to four months. What is optimum for you to use depends upon a wide range of variables. You can study suggestions from other climates for each method, but you have to experiment with them where you are to determine which works best for you and at what times of the year. A rose breeder friend in Rancho Mirage has his best success in November using soft wood, if that helps. Kim

Michal, thanks for taking the time and making the video. Whats amazing about fig wod is there are so many many ways to root them. Some work better than others for folks but having so many ways is great and gives one options to use what they have on hand and not spend a lot in doing so if there are budget constraints for some of us. I would suppose the cheapest way and its worked for me is one you mention in the video just stick the stick inground yup it works, one spring day i did this amongst my hostas and it rooted just fine after a good spell. For the curious and i never added up percentages to see how one worked over the other but they have all worked for me in past seasons i dont really root anymore scion as im basically done with that aspect if i need a duplicate i airlayer now off parent tree for myself. Ive rooted brown and green scion mostly brown in Spahgnum Moss Expandable Peat Cups (used for rooting garden seeds) Water Dirt and or potting soil (simply stuck inground or in parent pot) Perlite and potting soil Simple baggie method with newpaper as wrap ive also seen long time ago a bunch of sticks put in a 5 gallon bucket filled with water an aquarium airstone in a garage and most rooted. As i was doing this in seasons past i never did the bleach thing it just never occured to me i just rinsed the sticks under tap water to clean them and never had any mold problems suppose im lucky in that department after what ive been reading last season or so. Ive had dissapointments oh yes some scion just not do anything, some turn mushy and soft (the green ones ) and some make it to the cups and get overwatered by me only to go kaput! Hopefully in near future i will be getting last pieces scion that i will be rooting i know some will say yeah right but for me its true least rooting scion and for the last time i will use baggie, expandable peat pot and SM and i will get 1 plant to grow i should i better im confident although im not an expert then im finally done with scion and time to thin out a plant or 2 i dont want for 1 reason or another. I suppose many of you will come to this and some will carry on and keep going those that have the room perhaps and even those that do not . In end its all fun much fun for me i never got to technical with rooting them but thats just me as we are all different . Michal again thanks for taking the tiime to make that video and im sure you have helped many and i always look forward to seeing more video's, perhaps 1 day i will make a simple video just showing some of my plants. Wishing everyone a good fig season to come. __________________ Martin Near Chicago,Illinois Zone 5 Ebay ID , Me ( Dieseler6z92 ) Wife ( Cubandaisy )

I let this thread hang around to gather some seriousious suggestion before I tossed in my one wild observation. Perhaps you might try Bougainvillea root cuttings. I had a Bougainvillea in a pot that got surprised by a hard freeze so I tossed it. My spouse retreved it from the dumpster and replanted the root and it grew a new plant.