I've had my SZ since '99 when the price tag didn't bother me. Now, its up there. I have a few friends who are realtors who tell me I've added to the value of my house as SubZero has such a great reputation. Even with the mechanical complexity of the ice on the door, I really haven't had any failures once I figured out that you have to switch from a Culligan Reverse Osmosis water purifier to a Kinetico Quickflow for the Ice maker to keep from overflowing. With the low water pressure of the Culligan, I had to manually defrost the icemaker when I tested to see if the freezer really can go below zero. Back in those times, the SZ was the only fridge with ice on the door that consumed less than 900Kw/H a year thanks to the air lock on the door dispenser and having two separate compressors for fridge and freezer. My house is solar, so that was very important to me. If water on the door dispenser stops flowing, you set the fridge temp below 34 and it froze. You can't leave salad stuff outside the crisper even at 34. It will freeze and decay quickly. Same thing with fruits like strawberries. They go bad faster if they start to freeze. My beer has never been as cold and delicious since it started resting in the meat drawer. Your mileage may vary. My other appliances are a beloved F&P dishdrawer and an AGA cooker. But, thats another thread.

wekick, Thanks for your post. I'm sincerely glad you haven't had the issues I noted with the Wolf range. How long have you owned your Wolf? Wondering if it's only an issue with the recent Wolfs (Wolves?). Look at this link to a video of a paper test. Is this inaccurate?: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FGyugwvncFA&feature=related Interested to know if you found different results. Most shocking to me is the heat pattern. As for Wok cooking, I have a fairly powerful outdoor Wok burner 137K BTU but can't really accomplish that in my kitchen (probably unsafe and illegal). I live in northern Vermont and "wokking" outside isn't pleasant in the sub-zero weather we often get here. Also don't want a separate wok-only venting system and don't want to void my fire-insurance policy. Many of the dedicated built-in wok burners i've seen suitable for the home are actually rated around or even lower than 23K BTU and the better ones aren't much more than 30K BTU. Wolf's dedicated wok burner, for example, is only around 22K btu. I found the 23K Culinarian burners to do a fairly admirable job. In my experience, it's not just the BTUs that matter for successful wok cooking, but heat/flame pattern is equally important. I found the Culinarian burner flame pattern to be extremely Wok-friendly. There's an ongoing debate as to whether gas or electric is better for pastry baking (IMHO it depends what you're baking) but there's not much debate that gas is generally preferred for cooking/roasting meats/veggies and even bread which is more my bag. Depends upon preference, as you noted. Also I didn't mind the lack of rolling racks on the Wolf, but the Wolf range I tried didn't accommodate full-sized commercial sheet pans. Oven seemed a bit cramped. I also considered the Bluestar and still very much like the cast iron tops on them. The service record, however, concerns me. There also apparently remains major problems with door hinges, failing igniters, etc. I've considered an "additional" induction burner for my new kitchen, but would never replace open-flame cooking with induction. It is incredibly efficient but somehow lacks soul. Call me old fashioned or romantic or whatever, but I derive great joy from cooking and have never found cooking over electric, ceramic, or even induction to be as dynamic or satisfying. I won't even consider a sealed burner. This may be why i'm smitten with the Culinarian. It has the feel of a true commercial, open burner range, and nearly the power of one. I hope you don't take my post as in any way diminishing your choice. As you say, it's all personal preference and, having not yet placed my order for our 48" inch Culinarian, I'm open to being convinced to go another route if my experiences were anomalies that can be demonstrated. Continued satisfaction and happy cooking!

A month of so ago, I started getting emails from Zillow (have no idea how). They show a picture of a kitchen, the total cost, and then, when one scrolls down, they show a breakdown, by category, of materials and labor. It was a HUGE eye opener for me as I thought cabinets were a MUCH bigger part of the budget than they appear to be. One can subscribe to "budget", "mid-range", and "luxury" kitchens. I think the biggest price I ever saw for cabinets in a HUGE kitchen, was about $30-40,000. Appliances? Often $20,000. Countertops & backsplash were another high ticket area. And labor clearly varied, based on whether there was extensive electrical/plumbing work or blowing out walls. I asked my KD about this (he owns the company and also supplies the labor for most of the work), and he said that in the nearly 40 years he's been doing this, he has seen the cabinet percentage of a kitchen remodel go down substantially. He said this is due to many manufacturers doing semi-custom which cuts cost dramatically. He said it's a rare client who springs for total custom as they rarely need to be able to spec things to the 1/4 inch. He said there are so many ways to work around this and then do NOT involve "filler strips". My own kitchen is going to come in at around $25,000, $13,000 of which is cabinets. But my kitchen is an anomaly as I am reusing my kitchen counters/integrated sink, all the undercounted lighting can be reused, ceiling pot lights were done over a decade ago - only 1 new one added, existing hardwood floors are being used (finished on site 13 years ago), and we're even reusing the Perrin & Rowe faucet - it's still made and now twice the price it was when I bought it. So, in reality, I'm doing a $40,000 kitchen, I just paid for much of the high cost stuff over the years. Did I make some compromises? Of course! I wish the cabinet interiors were wood, not a thin veneer of maple melamine (they will be painted wood on the glass doored cabinets), but it was not worth several thousands more to get this. No one sees them but me and they will be easy to keep and clean. Am I getting every single thing my little heart desired? Again, no! But this is due to the fact that I have an 11 x 15 kitchen and there is simply no room to build in the microwave or get other appliances off the counters (without sacrificing valuable real estate which I was unwilling to do). Is it going to be a show piece? What kitchen that size is! No island, just a $99 Ikea 17" wide cart. I hope this helps you. Try to subscribe to the Zillow kitchen emails - they are invaluable when pricing things.

So...I didn't really consider the speed ovens until they were brought up recently on the thread. Now that I've looked at them, aside from the increased cost and loss of a turntable, are there any downsides to swapping the Miele microwave with a Miele speed oven? It looks like the footprint is identical, which would be my primary concern with this change. I didn't really set out to get three ovens, but given that I really want the standard convection oven, the combi-steam oven, and a microwave, it seems like it's worth considering this change. Given the desire for fast reheating, etc with wife and kids, having a microwave is necessary. Also, is it still advisable to keep the warming drawer? From what I've read, some have suggested the the speed oven and/or steam oven can replace a warming drawer, but @pillog's thoughts on this post have convinced me that I'm not completely insane for wanting to keep this in the layout. (Biasing towards Thanksgiving/large group cooking as opposed to everyday needs.) The layout would be: Main stack: convection oven (bottom); warming drawer (middle); speed oven/microwave (mainly due to the fact that the XXL Miele CSO won't trim match with the 30" convection oven but the microwave will: post and post) Separate stack (opposite side, beneath counter): CSO Thanks for everyone's thoughts on this design, it's been really helpful. -joe