Ok, so I got my results of the soil test back from UMass. Here are the results: -------------------------------------- Linestone and fertilizer recommendations for established turfgrass Apply 50 lb of calcitic limestone/1000 sq ft. Lime may be applied at any time, but mid-autumn or early spring is best Recommendation: 3 lb/1000 sq ft P205, and 4 lb/sq ft K20. To provide the above recommendations you may follow the directions below, or you may devise your own fertilizer program using the recommended amounts of phosphorus (P205) and potassium (K20) along with one pound of Nitrogen per 1000 sq feet. It may necessary to raise nutrient levels over several applications. Apply a 20-3-12 fertilizer @ 5 lbs/1000 sq ft in late April, late June, and very late August. If more convenient you may substitute the late April recommendation with the same application made 1 to 2 weeks after your last fall mowing. Follow these recommendations for two years. Retest the following year. Consult the interpretation sheet enclosed or obtain one of the turf guides referenced on the backside of the interpretation sheet. Micronutrient(ppm) Boron: 0.1 Manganese 1.3 Zinc 0.5 Copper 0.3 Iron 31.0 Sulfur 15.0 Soil Ph 6.1 Nitrogen: No3-N = 0 ppm BUffer pH: 6.7 Organic Matter 3.1% (desirable range 4 - 10%) nutrient levels (ppm) Phosphorus: 1 Potassium 45 Calcium 219 Magnesium 83 Cation exch Cap 4.0 meq/100g Percent base saturation K = 2.4, Mg = 13.9, Ca = 22.5 Micronutrient levels : all normal Extractable aluminum 128 ppm (soil range: 10 - 250 ppm) THe lead level in this soil is low. --------------------------- If I want to use organic fertilizer, do you have any recommendations for brands? Since I have missed the recommended late april application, can I apply one now, and still apply another in late June? If I apply the suggested lime amount, how will that affect the pH level? I am thinking of overseeding with kentucky bluegrass in the fall. Also i noticed in their interpretation sheet they mention that a Cation exch capacity of 10 to 15 is typical. and values below 6 may indicate the soil will have trouble supporting good turf growth unless special management techniques are employed. Should I be concerned? how can I increase this value?

Can someone help me identify this weeds or grass and advise me on how to get rid of it. The weeds/grass has taken over my whole front yards. link to the pics: http://imgur.com/7nXj4EI,gBDuNIg,FRGIuAd,Hfy392J,Dh92KyC,Gnv9EWG,IbkN2ip,Cq11nv7#0 I live in an urban area in southern Louisiana if that help with identifying it. Thanks!

whatever that weed is we don't see it much on this forum. My first choice for a weed killer would be Weed-B-Gone. Second choice would be Weed-B-Gone Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis killer. Third choice would be Brush-B-Gone. Those are three increasingly effective varieties of the same weed killer. The grass looks more like bermuda than zoysia. Is it still growing? Can you pull up a surface runner and take a picture? Does it get seed heads if you don't mow it for a week or so? Can you take a picture of any seed heads? Where do you live? Zones don't matter. We need the city or zip code to help you better. You need to calibrate your sprinkler(s). Put some tuna or cat food cans around the yard and turn on the sprinkler. Time how long it takes to fill the cans. That will always be your watering time. If you have a zoned system do that for each zone. Once you have done that calibration, there will be an inch of water in your soil. When you get back with your location I can tell you more about when to water again. It won't be for a couple of weeks, so don't get panicky. 60 days is not long to go from beautiful to this. I suspect the lawn had been nursed carefully while it was for sale and now it has collapsed. If you live in El Paso or west of Junction, I will change my story on that. For right now, I would apply a starter dose of organic fertilizer along with the water mentioned above. For fertilizer you can use corn meal, alfalfa pellets, or Milorganite. Those are in order of increasing cost. You can get the first two at a feed store. They might have Milorganite there, too, but for sure at a garden store. A bag of corn meal should cost under $10. A bag of alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow) should be around $12-$14. Milorganite might be on sale for $8 but usually it's above $16. The application rate for the first dose would be 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Then 3 weeks later you can go up to the normal dose of 15 to 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. This should correct any soil biology issues. This is in addition to the weed n feed you already used. In the future stay away from those. If this works for you, I'll be surprised, but fine. Usually those don't work well as either weed killer or fertilizer. If you want to kill weeds spot spray with a liquid. If you want to fertilize, use a fertilizer. The problem with wnf is you usually need one or the other but never both at the same time. The other problem is to apply it correctly takes two people working in close harmony to keep the grass moist while the product is going down. Then watch the grass for signs that it is no longer growing. When that happens give it one last dose of a very high N fertilizer with very low or zero P and K. After that forget about it until April. Keep it watered once a month during the winter. Mulch mow at your mower's lowest setting two times then raise it up a notch for the rest of the season. Mulch mow 2x to 3x per week at that higher setting until it stops growing.

Thanks for identifying this plant. You seem to be right! I've started treating it and it appears to be killing it off.