TIVO, I am exhausted just from reading all the complicated things you've done and are concerned about. My basic approach to ANY thing in life has always been to do it as simply and cheaply as possible. There is a simple thing you can do, which will not cost you one cent, that will make Every Single One of These irrelavant. I used generic potting soil from wal-mart, so I am not sure about the level of nutrients in the soil. I also mixed in a little bit of coffee grounds and composted cow manure, so I probably (i just learned) inadvertently temporally reduced the amount of what ever available soluble nitrogen was available. (I was smart enough to mix in extra perlite b/c blackberries need more drainage than most other plants.) Any way, I have 10 newly potted blackberry plants. I was wondering if I should use Miricle-Gro Quikstart Transplant Solution (or any other brand). Do I risk root burn if I use this before the plants have a chance to get over the shock of shipping and planting? or will it help reduce the shock as advertised? If I leave the plants alone (except for watering of course) will it be awhile before the plants even need available NPK? Do you think the available soluable NPK already in the soil is adequate until the plants show growth? I am also considering putting in plant food spikes (about half or less the recommended amount until growth starts) b/c of the slower release. The small amount b/c it's mostly root and small stems and the desire to "do no harm." What do you all suggest? Here is what I suggest: Simply put a layer of grass clippings on top of whatever soil you have in the pots. (I would have used plain old soil from my yard, which is free!) The grass clippings will: 1. provide all the nutrients your blackberries neeed. Ive had thornless blackberries for 32 years, in the ground. The only "fertilizer" they've gotten is grass clippings- with maybe an occassional banana peel or other kitchen scrap. 2. Make any worries about fertilizer burn- simply Can't happen with them- or nutrient deficiencies a thing of the past. 3. Let you go longer between waterings, because they keep the soil much cooler and moister. 4. Prevent weeds, which can come up even in pots. A couple of tips on using the clippings in the pots. (And later when the berries are in the ground.) 1. Don't let the clippings actually touch the stems of the berries, especially fresh clippings. All the moisture in them could rot the stems, though blackberries are just about impossible to kill. In the pots, you can make small collars from yogurt cups or something similar to put aruond the stems. 2. Always water before you appply clippings, so they can "lock in" the moisture. This holds true in the ground, too, but is even more important in fast-drying-out pots. Then try not to get the clippigns wet for a while, till they've dried. It wouldn't hurt your plants one bit, but they might smell a little. Oh, I'm curious why you think blackberries "need more drainage than most other plants?" I have heavy clay soil, and they've done just fine. In fact, many people are afraid to grow blackberries, cause they are so hardy and "take over the yard." (On that, if you'd like to know a way to keep that from happening, post a question.) Oh, I hope you didn't pay extra to get Ten plants? The way blackberries spread, believe me, One would be sufficient. Ive given away hundreds of plants to other local gardeners over the years. Tyrell

Natchez 400 to 500 link help locate your chil hour averages. Natchez the newest blackberry plant out there, but there newer one coming out. Natchez would be one best choices from Arkansas to try in your area you get berries but bumber crop may not happen. One thing you can do is remove all leaves around christmas and shade plant dark as can without heating up cover all but north side plant double cover with air space is best. In Mexico they get 2 crops year by removing leaves they do this by not having any chil hours chil hours are number hours 45 degrees and below this give plant a rest period. A black berry plant grow 4 inches per day once established fertilized and watered along with sunlight heat at night may get more 4 inches per day time 30 days 120 inches divided by 12 inch equals 10 foot in one month. Here is a link that might be useful: Chil hour map

The raspberries might be fine (I hope), both varieties are supposed to be good to zone 4, but TC "grows well" only in 6-9 and we're right on the edge of 5b and 6. I guess I'll just lay those down and cover them with burlap, if they root, I'll just have more to transplant next year. Supposedly they have a low chill requirement, so I'll let them have a few good frosts before I cover them. The problem is if we have a warm spell after they chill, they could break dormancy and get frozen again (like this year, it was a mild winter, low temps but not much snow, then it hit mid-70's in March, 3 hard freezes the last week of April. Bad apple crop this year.).

Just wanted to post a followup on this for anyone who may come across this thread in the future. I always hate finding a thread full of good information, but then not knowing if it actually worked or not. I replaced the trees that died, and the new ones are doing great. Here's what I did differently. (I know that for some of you, these may be the most obvious things in the world, but some of us are still learning, even from our really stupid, obvious mistakes). - I waited til it cooled down. It got cooler earlier than I expected, so I was able to do the transplants a couple weeks ago. - Smaller trees. I did still really need the height, so I went with 6-8' tall trees (some are about 9', actually), but I got much smaller caliper (trunk diameter) trees. I tried for no more than about 1.5" caliper, measured 6 inches above the root flare (some are a little closer to 1.75"). They're definitely much less full, but they'll get the job done until they fill in and grow up a little. It helps a lot that I found out that for screening purposes, eastern red cedars can be planted as close as 4' apart. Bigger, fuller trees really aren't needed at that spacing. - No starter fertilizer. These are trees, not grass. I used some Fertilome Root Stimulator & Starter solution (per the manufacturer's instructions) when I planted, and may add some Superthrive in a couple weeks, just to get the roots really going before winter kicks in. - Much better care of the root balls. I didn't make perfect root balls, as such - after reading a whole lot of back and forth between scientists on the benefits of good root balls vs taking as much root as possible, even if they're outside of the dirt, I kind of went with a hybrid approach. I got as much root as I could, and kept as much dirt on them as possible. I kept all of them covered with dirt of some type for as much time as possible, and ensured that they never actually got dry. Total time from digging to planting was less than 4 hours, and most of that time, they were in some kind of dirt. - I watered with a sprinkler for a few days, to let moisture come in through both the roots & leaves, in case the roots were having difficulty of some kind. Then I found out about Wilt-Pruf (prevents moisture from escaping through the leaves, which causes a lot of transplant shock). I applied it per the manufacturer's instructions, and am now watering with a soaker hose, as Wilt-Pruf should also prevent absorption of water through the leaves. - I haven't mulched yet (life got in the way unexpectedly), but I will be soon. Something else I came across in my reading - mulch isn't required, but most bushes or trees that are mulched in their first year or two after transplant show 20%+ more growth than those that aren't. Since growth & size are my primary goals here, it's worth having that junk in my yard for a year or two. We'll see what, if anything, will grow under these trees once they're established, but for now, it's gonna be mulch. Thanks, everybody, for all the insights provided. Hopefully these results, and what I did to get them, will be useful to someone else in the future, too.