Different species will come out a different shade even though the same stain is used. However you could have different techniques or a combination of techniques used in the areas with other types of wood (water pop, tints, dye). If you are considering staining maple you should look through the Hardwood Floors Magazine forum topic http://hardwoodfloorsmag.com/forum/topic31-staining-maple.aspx. My suggestion is to consider using a finisher with experience in matching colors. There is a large difference in skill level between different finishers in matching colors. It is not rocket science but there is a base of knowledge that is needed. Try to understand what the outcome is going to look like before the work starts as you will be the one to decide if it looks good in the end. Test patches or samples can help

the ozone machine may work, but i have my doubts. as pet stains that are persistent usually are the ones where the damage has gone deep into the floor or even the subfloor. Sometimes the sanding and refinishing will take care of it. Sometimes it doesnt. My suggestion is check the prices of the air purifier and if its not going to break the bank try it, it cant hurt. But if my suspicion is correct, then the only way to remedy it would be to remove the effect floor boards and install new. a good pro will have no issue doing the patch work, the sanding and blending of the stain to match requires a really good pro. but worst case you resand that room, and by the sounds of it, its not that big, so not a Huge ordeal.

Can someone please recommend a product to clean wood floors - recently refinished with an oil-based polyurethane? I checked out Bona - can't get the one they have for oil based here anywhere. What about Murphy's Oil Soap, diluted? I dont want to wreck our new floors, please help!! Thanks

Not the best; not the worst. Reality--80YO floors. How much of the floor has been sanded away in previous refinishes? Is there enough wood depth left to resand/ refinish. Because the floors have now been stained, I'm guessing that a significant amount of the refinish-able depth will get cut away. So either there isn't enough wood left to do another sanding or you'll be shortening the life of the floor so far as future possible refinishes are concerned. Perhaps the finish can be lightly sanded/ scuffed to remove some of the grit and another coat of finish applied? Not with these guys, though. Most likely out of your pocket because the insurance company won't cover it. (If you opt for this route, know what finish --brand/ type--was used for this refinish.) A scuff and recoat won't fix the places where the stain didn't take. Brown Sharpie or some other cosmetic fix?