Also - Roots are coming out of the bottom

root the part growing above the stake ... and once that is rooted ... then go to town on some maniacal plan to repot ...

that way ..... if you fail miserably on the repot/etc .. you have a fail safe ...

you say you want it to keep growing up ... but what is the plan there .... its going to look silly with a 5 foot pole in the new pot ... its not really a tree form plant ... i usually see it in hanging baskets.. so it can NATURALLY cascade down ...

actually.. your best plan .. might be to root 3 or 4 pieces.. and eventually put those in a hanging basket.. [or on a pedestal to accomplish the same] ... or put a hook in the ceiling.. and let it grow down.. like it wants to ...

in other words.. think outside your box ...

in these pix.. note that a majority of the plants are in hanging pots: https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffcm&q=GOLDEN+POTHOS&iax=images&ia=images

ken

ps: i also note there isnt much golden in your plant.. and that MIGHT be due to lack of proper lighting ... it seems to be stuck in an interior corner .... how far is it from a good light source???... that might also be why the new top part is elongated.. etoliated.. compared to older growth ... this wont kill the plant.. it just wont grow to expectation ...

oh.. and get a tray to trap water run off so you dont ruin the end table ....

It's not a good time to repot your plant (June is the best month if you live in the northern hemisphere), but potting up would be fine. There's a big difference between the two. If you must 'do something' it would be best to pot up now and repot in June. The stake should be no problem whether you do either procedure. Just pull it up or leave it in. You might not be able to increase the ht of the stake, though that would be pretty simple, but you can easily reduce the ht of the plant by pruning it back to lower nodes. Again, the best time to do that is June. The reason is, if you do it now, your plant will put on the leggy growth you don't want to keep. Do it in June and the plant puts on tight growth with short internodes - the perfect recipe for a full and compact plant that makes things look like a pro has been tending the plant.

Al

@tapla,
What is so special about June? Isn't it pretty warm at that time?

An overwhelmingly large fraction of topical plants commonly grown as houseplants rebound from the stress of repotting fastest when they are repotted immediately prior to that part of the growth cycle when the most robust growth occurs. The least favorable span of time for repotting is late fall to mid-spring, with late winter/ early spring being the worst time to repot; this, because houseplants' energy reserves are usually at their lowest after a long, dark, often cool, winter, and their ability to create food/energy from sunlight and CO2 is also greatly diminished. Also, a plant's natural defenses against disease pathogens and insect herbivory are a byproduct of its metabolic rate. The question then, is, "Do I repot at when the plant is weak, with limited ability to defend itself, and a longer than necessary recovery is virtually assured; or, do I repot when the plant has high energy reserves and it's ability to make food/ energy is at peak levels due to the longest days and highest light intensity of the growth cycle, ensuring the fastest recovery (all else equal)?

There might be times when repotting is essential regardless of the timing and the grower might decide not repotting means forfeiting the plant's viability. In that case, one does what one must. I have found that most "emergencies" are not really as emergent as the grower thinks and it would serve the plant better, when repotting is considered to be a viable remedy, to wait for a more desirable point in time to arrive than unnecessarily repot out of season.

What I wrote is from the perspective of what is best for the plant. A grower might decide that it really doesn't make much difference and do whatever the grower is moved to do when so moved, but that doesn't change anything I said. I should say, if a houseplant is healthy and being grown under lights and controlled temp/ humidity, it could be repotted or potted up at virtually any time, but still, June would be best. It just makes good sense to allowance for the plant's period of weakness by not taxing it with unnecessary stress, and to plan heavy work like repotting and hard pruning for that part of the growth cycle when the plant can best deal with the stress.

Al

Exactly, Dave!! That is my goal to get those big beautiful leaves! Hence why I want this baby to keep growing up! I just dont know how the heck to keep it doing so without accidently ripping the roots off and pissing off the plant right before winter hits. I am in the NH (Pa Zone 6b). Thinking bigger pot and then fastening another plank on to it SOMEHOW.

You don't have to use a plank, you can use a trellis if you want, like a tomato cage or other wire form, sticks, wood grid, whatever you prefer or can get. Agree about not trying to remove the roots from the existing plank. Adding something to it would be much less traumatic. The chances of a potted plant forming mature leaves are slim. I've only ever seen a few.

For a similar look, you might like "mini Monstera" (Rhaphidophora tetrasperma) which looks like the nickname suggests, a mini Monstera with split leaves. Tree Philodendron (P. bipinnatifidum) might also appeal. Or Swiss cheese vine (Monstera adansonii.)

That plank looks pretty wide so it should not be too difficult to add some length to it. The question is if that would make it unstable. If you are going to move it to a bigger pot, the issue of stability would be resolved for now. Are you able to find an identical plank? If so, drill a few holes in the the plank and corresponding holes in your extension plank; attach the two planks via dowels and also use some wood adhesive to double the length of the plank. You could choose to put a narrower plank or even one or more bamboo sticks on top of the plank to extend it. Frankly, I have never seen a plank used in this way. Usually, a moss , coir or jute stick is used for this purpose. The advantage is that they are built in a way that they can be extended easily. moss stick - Google Search

In order to get the wider leaves, Epipremnum aureum will need to attach to the 'stake' with more aerial roots, and it will need to achieve a greater height. More light and humidity will likely help as well. So if that is what you are after, I'd consider just buying a 5 to 6-foot fir board and attaching it to the old board that is already in your pot. Or, as others have said, consider getting a variegated Monstera with already large splitting leaves.

When I said adding something to it, I meant another support in addition to this one, something taller and adjacent, not adding height to it. But I guess that could be done with the right hardware.

I have that same problem 😕 but nun of these answers

Nun at all?