Randy, I absolutely agree with that! And if you really get into it, a 30X lens is amazing, too. I just recently looked at the apparently brown bottom point on a Pipevine Swallowtail chrysalis under 30X and found it had a bright purple area with a thick "lawn" of what looked like dark amber glass balls on very thin, curved glass stems. These functioned as hooks to hold the silk threads of the lower attachment pad.

Absolutely Lesser Goldfinch. By the way, I don't know how much time you spent looking at warbler pics, but you would have saved yourself that effort by noting the bill shape: warblers have much thinner bills. Bill shape and size is often a good clue to point you in the right direction; bright colour patterns you'll likely remember without trying, but the bill really needs to be looked at (unless we're talking about a toucan or spoonbill etc). Just a friendly hint. -O-

I've attempted wiring with both alternatives attempted; one time capped yellow wire, the other time purple was capped. It looks like I'm on positive side this time but not sure to see it as complete. Better than previous experience - that circuit breaker did not trip so power to the room remain intact. I did not finish my entire work of fixing fan yet but attempting only to see if wiring works. So, the best test I see is to see if the light will turn on and next step is if possible to see if fan motor turns with out blades fixed. Every time I turn on the switch I see lights flash and go off irrespective of what I'm doing with remote (yes, each time). Reference Video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5s...piZ2ZEclE/view Quick internet read relates mentioning: I've attempted 1 and then 2 CFL bulbs each of 13 watts, each light holder on fan indicates max 14 w can be attempted. I've to attempt 9W LED bulbs that came along, may be that can indicate something to me. In general what I expected is lights will stay on and relate to remote actions. And so fan motor may turn if I do so on remote. I think all remaining work is mechanical (like fix blades and give it a final shape). I'm also sure remote battery is as new as fan came along fan package and so far not yet clicked more than 10 times. This is making me to think to think if I can move ahead finish all of it and then attempt. Any one sensing problem with that flashing or that flashing light indicate everything is going to be good when done? Thank you all and any insights is very much appreciated.

First of all, those 3 prong adapters are garbage. They don't create a ground, so it's the same as if you snapped off the ground prong on the plug. ie. It creates an unsafe situation. The only tiny situation where they actually work is where the box that the receptacle is installed in is properly grounded but the receptacle itself isn't. And there's no reason that someone would ground one and not the other. Second, you don't have to actually use GFCIs at EVERY location on a circuit. You could replace the first receptacle on the circuit with a GFCI and connect the downstream wires to the "Load" side of the GFCI. Then everything downstream is protected. You can then replace all of the downstream 2 prong outlets with regular 3 prong outlets. As I noted above though, if there is no ground then technically you should stick the "No Equipment Ground" stickers on all of the receptacles. Or instead of replacing the first receptacle with a GFCI, you could replace the breaker with a GFCI breaker. But breakers are more expensive than receptacles. Third, as I noted above, the surge protectors may not work on circuits that aren't grounded. So those devices that you have plugged into non-grounded surge protectors probably aren't protected (even if it's a GFCI protected outlet). Is it worth rewiring the whole house? Maybe/maybe not. It might be worth while to rewire some of the more important circuits though. Bathrooms, kitchens, and any circuit that has modern equipment use. When you get quotes to replace those, it might be worth while to get quotes to replace everything to see what the difference might be.