JL you were correct in the info given for leveling, but if there are extra challenges with level with a non assist bagger on- there are other fish to fry. The plastic tube itself basically weighs nothing. The guy that bungees the tube to the tractor can affect deck travel if he tries hard enough. That is why I mentioned this. On the other hand, poor discharge through the tube can create quality of cut issues that mimic an out of level deck. For that matter, as grass travels up the tube- there is likely some extra weight present. I suppose you could throw a bag of sugar on the chute side when leveling. A YT4000 can be a 42, 46 or a 48" deck. Maybe it is a simple as a rear tire pressure is too low and as it fills the bagger it affects the level. Bottom line, something else if likely at play here if the level appears to noticeably change from one mode to the next. It isn't like you are trying to make up for the weight and torque of a powerflo here...

I haven't pulled back the caulk. Getting in the space won't be difficult. On the outside edge of the tub, the deck space is slightly over four inches. On the faucet edge, there is no decking; the tub butts up against the wall. On the back end of the tub, there is about eight inches. On the final long side, there is a "garden" type window centered with the tub, which is 25 inches deep and 48 inches long. Basically, it is an extension of the deck. I will try to post a picture once I figure out how to do it!

Really a problem how? I haven't built with any vinyl railings but I have put together multiple Radiance Rail and Ornamental Rail systems. You follow the directions, you cut carefully, it'll go fine. It takes a little more time than using 2x4s and 2x2s but it looks a lot nicer too. Porch guy, you crack me up. size and shape of deck, height from ground, thickness of flooring, 6x6s are "too big" - dude, w...t...f... none of that has anything to do with the choices available in railing systems. Gotta agree w/ Hyatt, you post some things that have me shaking my head! Garden_Junkie, if you're still wandering around this site, yes, you can shim out a 4x4 post to use those Deckorator rock sleeves. Try a 2x4 nailed to the inward facing side of the post and a 2x6 on the side facing the next post. See how the sleeve fits over that, you might need some additional shims to tighen the fit. If you have a table saw, you could also rip pieces to nail to the post for an exact fit. See if Deckorators will show you any of those post sleeves that have been installed for a year or two. Hyatt's got it - the stone sleeves are a new product...don't be Deckorators' guinea pig if they haven't worked out all the bugs! Mac

Are the posts embedded in concrete poured around the posts in larger holes? As you can see, there are large gaps between the post and the concrete---which have caused the rot by allowing standing water in the gaps. To replace the posts, you will need to build temporary supports too allow post removal. Best option would be to pour new concrete piers, replace the rotted posts with new ones affixed to the piers with post standoff brackets. Those brackets are bolted to the concrete(usually a center bolt in an anchor) and the post sits in the top about an inch or so above the concrete, with screws holding the post in the bracket. A second option would be to remove the rotted posts, fill the holes with concrete and install a metal plate over the concrete---since the filled holes will not be strong enough to support a new post and the load. Then use the post standoff brackets to install new posts. A third option would be to dig/pour new piers at different locations under the deck and install new posts in those locations, again using the standoff brackets.