Hi everyone - I am also using Section cabinets to create a console for my home office, and then I'm using "Semihandmade" to create the custom drawer / door fronts. I am having huge concerns however with the filing cabinet solution. The Section cabinet frame I am using for the filing cabinet is 18W X 15D X15H. I also bought the Medium Maximera drawer. My issue is that the back of the Maximera drawer is only 5 1/2 inches tall and i need it to be at least 10 inches tall so I can screw a hardware filing cabinet mount into the front and the back. I'm not a fan of placing in plastic or cardboard items that fit inside and hold the files, I know it works well, but I'd really rather this be more professional and have the metal glides. This would be easy to install if only the back was at least 10 inches. Does anyone have any ideas on how to increase or extend the height of the back of the Maximera drawer? They don't make the Deep / High Maximera drawers for the 15D and 15H - so the Medium drawer is my only solution. I also have to use the Maximera drawer as "Semihandmade" is using these drawers as the template to create my custom drawer / door fronts. Thus, it seems my only option here is to figure out how to increase / extend the height of the back of the Medium Maximera drawer. Any suggestions would be beyond appreciated, thank you!

Cherie, Oh, it was my impression from jdesign_gw that I could only do a two medium drawer base. Sorry, I am new to IKEA cabinetry and the hacks. I thought it had to do with the hardware. I figured they just didn't make it for the 5 inch or the 15 inch deep for the 21" wide cabinet. .Although I did see on the parts sheet above everything was 5 inches so it left me confused on how you could do anything greater than a 5" deep drawer. I am not familiar with how these are assembled so I don't know how the sliding hardware can or cannot limit what my end result will be. Ideally I would like a 21" cabinet with a 5'' a 10" and a 15". Can I do this by purchasing 3 sets of the 5" Maximera above and my drawer fronts to spec elsewhere? Is the 21" cabinet predrilled to accommodate this or will the installer need to drill holes to line up with the 5" Maximera?

Radon finds its way through cracks and openings in the floor and walls. Pressurization (like stack effect) is a strong force, pulling the air through openings you cannot even see. So merely the presence of a concrete slab, gravel, insulation, and vapor barrier is not enough to stop radon. Passive radon mitigation is merely a pipe stuck through the slab, with the open end allowing the air filtering through the dirt or gravel underneath the slab to escape into the pipe and be exhausted above the roof. When you seal all areas that air can rise into the basement, like drains, slab edges, sump covers, except for this one pipe, the air escapes via convective rise on its own (lower subslab pressure vs higher indoor pressure), and sometimes can be adequate to lower radon levels. If not, then you add a mechanical fan to pull the air out. AARST CCAH-2020 standards recommend that new construction either have 4" gravel or a 4" perforated pipe loop running under the slab. In the same way you are lowering your risk by installing a sump pump, a surge protector, or pre-wiring low voltage for some unknown future electronic device, for radon you should install the 4" pipe loop when you have the chance. If you've seen installation of radon systems, you understand that "communication" (meaning the success of pulling the air through the gravel or dirt) is part-n-parcel of mitigating radon, and there are always issues with the gravel and dirt. Avoid that by putting in a pipe which allows air to move unhindered. This simple to install, cheap corrugated pipe would connect to a vertical 4" PVC pipe with a Tee. The 4" PVC can be a stub located where it could route up through the roof or out the side of house later, or you can install it vertically complete now. 100' of 4" perforated corrugated pipe runs about $50. Polyurethane sealant runs about $5 tube. This is cheap insurance to make it much easier later if you find out you have to. AARST also says to short-term test within 60 days after construction, but I'd wait 6mos to a year or so, if fine, then retest after a few years.

Now that I am retired and can actually focus on this issue, it is solved. Small clamps could squeeze the tiny gaps shut. I used regular, runny superglue at each tiny crack and the liquid wicked back. I put waxed paper around the glued area and my husband clamped it, then we went on to the next until done. After a couple hours, I removed everything, used 600 grit sandpaper to remove any excess and it looked much better. Then, I used a Q-tip to apply a bit of white oil paint and the area is sealed, fixed and we can move on.