Structure prune Crataegus
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2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoRelated Discussions
Deciduous pruning and root pruning
Comments (4)I excluded the ginkgo because I've read they don't heal branch or trunk chopping so I assume I'm left with only tip pruning to maintain size and clip and grow to train branches. I believe I remember hawthorn are best to be left to only pruning either roots or the top growth in one season. This could be me not remembering something correctly as I can't find the references to this now. Too much information read.. not enough retained. My head 'splode! With the juniper being substantially more vigorous than most evergreens will they take to hard pruning on top and root pruning in the same season or do they fall in the same category as most other evergreen species? And should this training be done in the spring with the deciduos trees or in full summer as recommended by Vance Wood on Scots and Mugo pines? I've been making a reference/journal on what to do and when to do it with different species.. this info is helping to fill in some important blanks. Thanks again for any help, it's extremely appreciated....See MorePruning Ramblers that cover structures
Comments (4)Maureen, I dropped the ball on this one and completely forgot to reply to your email the other day. Please forgive my slip up. I'll put my reply here. My Veilchenblau is a baby, trapped in a pot, so I don't have experience with this exact rose in this situation. If you are not getting basal canes, this will make your Veilchenblau a bit easier to train, IMO. It appears to be a matter of removing canes that are out of bounds and don't fit the building, instead of removing old canes to make room for new canes. Here's a mark up I did on your photo to show what I mean. These are the canes that I would consider removing. The one on the left is going off on its own, and so is the one on the right. The ones in the center are crowded and should be thinned a bit. My objective was to remove about 1/3 of what you have ... depending on your esthetic, you may want to remove more or less. A woody base on an old rambler can be a thing of beauty. A rose friend of mine has an old Reve d'Or with a gorgeous trunk. You can aim for this as you train your Veilchenblau, only removing canes that don't contribute to your overall objective. Your City of York is much more straight forward. It looks like you have WAY too many canes here. Take out a few, starting with the oldest, IMO, and take stock of what you have left after each cane is removed. While I was pruning my Aviateur Bleriot, I had a number of really tough decisions to make. This rose hadn't been pruned in three years, and it was a haystack ... growing in all directions. I was determined to get him back on the fence, so I cut off every cane that was old, bloomed out, or was too stiff to make it onto the fence. What I had left was a motley pile of rose ... which I reassembled like a jigsaw puzzle into what I hope will be a nice show when spring comes. (This was a lot more drastic than I wanted. It seemed necessary, considering the mess I had when I started.) Does this make sense?...See MoreTo Prune..or Not to Prune..that is the Q
Comments (10)Bridalwreath spireas are one of my favorite shrubs - not prouned! A house at the end of the street used to have a magnificent hedge of them all around the property. Then the house sold and was knocked down to build a big new one. The hedge got pruned into a rigid thing - in late summer of course, so all the flowering wood was lost... That year, at a Christmas party in the neghbourhood we met the new owers. I talked about the magnificent hedge that now doesn't flower and how great it would look with their house (which is dark blue with white trim.) I pretended to assume the previous owner had done the pruning before they sold the house. Last summer they let the hedge grow naturally and it is in full magnificent bloom at the moment! We met the lady of the house the other day while we were out walking the dog. I commented on how great the hedge looked - like a foaming wave around her very nautical-looking house :-) She seemed quite pleased with it but wanted to know how to make it a bit smaller. I told her she had two basic options - after the blooms fade, either cut it completely to about 6-8" and let the whole thing start again from the roots (it grows quite fast and that approach will produce a bush of 18-24" by the end of summer) or start doing a yearly maintenance of taking 1/3 of the stems out each after flowering finishes, removing the thickest ones. That will keep it tall but control the width a bit better. That's the apprach we take with ours. She seemed inclined to do the cut it down approach which I think is unwise in their case. The house is on the corner, fronting on a very busy road. Cutting in down is going to lose a lot of privacy....See MoreBuilding a structure for Climbing Hydrangea
Comments (9)Thanks for the information gardengal. It seems like, based on yours and others' experience, that this plant is very vigorous once established but not aggressive. Elizabeth, your plants sound absolutely lovely! How interesting that the leaves are significantly different sizes based on the sun exposure. Thanks for chiming in with your experience. Yesterday, my husband and I took down a medium size tree that the original homeowner had planted in a bad spot. The top was leaning over trying to get sunlight and had a lot of dieback. The trunk was quite straight and split into two trunks at about 6' high. After we cut off the upper branches, my husband was suddenly inspired to make a lean-to type structure for the hydrangea and notched out the V made by the trunk split and took the thickest of the two upper trunks and angled it in into the V. The trunks are a good 8" in diameter so they will last a long while before rotting. We'll put in some smaller branches for the hydrangea to establish itself on and hopefully, since this one will be in more sun, it will grow onto itself like Elizabeth's. The structure is not that big, but there is a large tree just behind it (which is why the other tree was struggling so much). So if/when the hydrangea engulfs the lean-to, hopefully we can train it along the ground and up the tree. We'll see how it goes. I will try to post a picture. We will put the other one on the chain link dog pen using the biggest branches from the tree as support to give it something to climb. This one will be in a lot of shade. I have a book by the Royal Horticultural Society on pruning and training and it says that Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris does very well with a hard pruning. Of course, we'd loose blooms for a while but its good to know that this plant can handle it if need be....See MoreUser
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