Just thought I'd add the final installment of this excellent adventure, sigh. Where we left it, contractor was going to get a 6" duct cover to fill the space between soffit and hood, and we'd call it a day. So I heard from the contractor on Monday. Turns out that for this specific hood, Imperial recommends a minimum 12" space above hood and will not make a 6" cover. (head hitting desk). This specific issue isn't exactly the contractor's fault, but a general cluster: Imperial's mfg installation instructions _do not_ include that 12" requirement, they just won't sell a cover smaller than 12; the retailer web site says "6 to 60 inch covers available" for all Imperial hoods, it's only after you try to order that they call and tell you not possible for this hood; the retailer and Imperial were both closed the day after Christmas so I just relied on the website when I made the call to go with a 6" spacing rather than have this idiot remove the soffit, etc. I could have lived with that, but again, the guy opened his mouth (via email): "You were wrong. They do not sell 6" covers. Why didn't you check that? I told you it would have been better to remove the soffit and use the existing 12" duct cover, but you made a bad decision." In fact on Friday, he had shrugged and told me "this is your choice, I'll do what you tell me to do" when I asked point blank which option would be better. His Monday tone seemed beyond simply defensive, into mocking -- like he thought it served me right for questioning his work. Before she even knew my reaction, my 'cut your losses' wife was enraged enough to download the state contracting board complaint forms. So, I sent an email telling him no further work was required and to please drop off the existing cover at his convenience and -- yet again -- send us the receipt for warranty purposes. I ended up having to go get the cover at his locale, he wouldn't drop off, and he ignored my repeated questions about a receipt, until told him I was going to stop payment on our check (that did the trick). Joy. At this point, we do intend to document all the non-code work and file a complaint with the contracting board. So our plan is this: in the medium term, find a new contractor, remove the stupid soffit, fix the electrical and duct tape and whatever. Either order a new 16" cover or move the hood again, a few inches up. With work and travel demands, that probably gets postponed to late February. For now, we're having a basic 6" sheet metal piece fabricated that will fit in the current gap.

You are talking about glass in the door? Try ODL and see if they have a retail option for the glass.

I drew up the plan I proposed above, with adjustments as needed based on the additional information you've provided. I assumed that the fridge wall is 144" not 143" and gave the extra inch to the fridge portion. I also estimated the window at 36" wide (based on the photo). If these assumptions are incorrect, you'll need to adjust accordingly. I kept the fridge wall and oven cab in their current locations. Sink is shifted from its current location, which I realize requires trenching into your slab but thankfully, the sink is fairly close to its current location so costs should be fairly minimal. I put the wine fridge in the island. That location is more convenient whether you're in the family room, dining room or breakfast nook. It can be accessed without crossing into the prep zone, which is a plus. I tried to figure out how to get stemware closer to the wine fridge but that was a no-go. I shifted the cook top out from under the window and to the left. This has multiple pluses, IMO. One, you can vent the cook top with a hood, which is more efficient that a downdraft and won't require increasing the depth of the counter to fit a downdraft (that would steal space from the aisle between oven and fridge side, which is already less than recommended). Two, it's less expensive. Pop-up downdrafts are easily over $1K. You can get a nice looking, functional chimney hood for less than half that. An undercabinet hood is even more reasonably priced. Three, having the largest expanse of counter between wall ovens and cook top moves your primary prep zone from one side into the center of the kitchen. You'll take fewer steps going from fridge or pantry to the prep zone. The aisle between table and island is a bit on the lean side, which is why I recommend placing the chairs as shown in the drawing. Mock it up to make sure you're good with this, though. Now's the time to make adjustments. Keep in mind that the recommended aisle behind seating is 44" (see the drawing I posted above). It's fine to have less than that on the window side because that's not a primary aisle. I suspect that the island curve will need to be softened so that you can reach the center to clean it. Again, mock it up and see what works for you. I estimate that you'll have room for 3 stools but the final shape will determine that. Allow 24" per person so that people can sit comfortably with enough room for elbows and legs. If you need another seat, you can reduce the width of the bottom right cabinet and extend the counter overhang towards the pantry. I didn't add uppers above the 12" deep cabinets in the nook area. As drawn, there's a nice balance of cabinets and open space on that wall. It also gives you the option to add a window. I listed suggested kitchen organization - blue for clean-up, table setting, green for prep, cooking, baking - to get you started. Feel free to adjust to suit how you work. I found it helpful to mentally make a meal using a new lay-out to see what worked, what didn't and how I could adjust it to make it function better. Think about how it would work when you entertain, clean-up, make snacks, etc. You can amend the plan to keep the cook top under the window but if you do, I strongly encourage you to go with a hood over the cook top for reasons stated above. See the link mamagoose posted above to see kitchens with this set-up. The dimensions in red show you what you gain with a smaller diameter table,either a 42" round or square table (set at an angle).If you need additional storage, you'd have room for cabinets against the kitchen/family room wall. ETA: Ignore the dimensions and shape of the square table. I don't know where my head was but what I drew isn't a 42" square table. It's much smaller than that. You could probably do a 40" square table and be okay but a 36" square table would work better. Not sure that's a better solution, though. Mock it up with blue tape. I know you have some, lol. I tried a few other ideas but they required structural/slab work and I didn't feel that the trade-offs were worth the additional expense. HTH!

I hate plantation shutters so I am no help I also think grids and then shutters are just way too much going on on the exterior.