Donna, you don't say what climate zone you are in, or which crape myrtle...there are some newer varieties that are more tolerant of cold, but depending on variety, crape myrtles can be grown from USDA hardiness zones 6 to 10. In zone 6, even the most cold-hardy varieties will probably be killed to the ground each winter and will be useful only as a shrubby, flowering perennial. I have to add too, that I have 'Zuni' in my own Z8 coastal garden in my hottest possible position with my light colored house to reflect heat - in 10 years time it's an interesting small tree with bronzy foliage and great peeling bark but it's never ever bloomed. Not enough summer heat. Very fresh seed that hasn't been stored or dried will often germinate, very lightly covered as some light may be beneficial to germination, 70-75F, without the cold period preceding sowing. If the seed has dried, as George notes in the other crape post: stratify 4 weeks at 40F, lightly cover the seed, soil temp 70-75F & takes 15-20 days to germinate & 15 weeks to reach large enough to set out - so you'll have to calculte your own average last frost date and count backwards.

If you can get, and keep, the crepe myrtle to a single trunk, it won't be as wide as a multi-trunked tree. The flowering branches do extend pretty far out, and can hang down/droop gracefully as the blooms open, possibly as wide as tall, but I haven't measured any big ones that were single trunk. That's why I suggested planting further from the sidewalk, so it doesn't block the walk. You could trim any branches that overhung the walkway back to the trunk, although the CM as a whole might look lop-sided. I am not sure you WANT to prune a 20 foot tree to keep it lower, unless you have access to a cherry picker, as it's rather hard to be safe that high up and reaching to prune? (if you are an aerialist, line-man, or professional arborist, then never mind) And CM's don't look good pruned shorter, IMO. Look up "crepe murder" on this forum or Google for it, and find photos of each, and you can see the differences in "murdered" treees and trees left to grow naturally. Trimming for shape is one thing, trimming for height is much harder to do and keep the tree looking natural. Try to find a CM cultivar that won't get taller than you want the ultimate height to be, and be aware that it will take some years for it to grow to that height. While I love lamb's ears, unless you get a non-flowering variety, be aware that it might not be the best for next to a public walkway. The bumble bees LOVE the flowers, and while you do have to work pretty hard to get a bumble bee to sting, it might upset the neighbors and passers-by to hear and see them buzzing happily. Not many people are aware of the differences between bb's and honey bees, and can react badly to any buzzing, bee-like insect.

Kato, We say "crepe" here. These "bushes" have been used everywhere since I was a little girl and after starting this thread I had to look it up because I have never ever considered them trees. A tree you say, really? To my surprise, they are considered trees. They are beyond common around here, just like Rose of Sharon is and sort of the same deal in my head. Something you plant in any soil, forget about it and it will make it no problem. Boring. There's lots of plants that are common as dirt elsewhere that I would give anything to be able to grow so I understand the frustration of being out of the zone for something I want. Crepes don't need supplemental water, they don't care how hot and dry it gets, they just bloom and bloom so they line the highways and streets a lot. Butterfly Bushes, which I consider in the same category as a good summer blooming shrub, are becoming common here too. The only thing is they are way thirstier. You get a lot more bloom with a "crepe" but you don't have the smell or the butterflies. There's these new small crepes that look like summer azaleas. These are becoming very common too along with the Knock-out Roses for long summer color. Oh and thanks for the heads up about the squabbles on the Tree Forum. I need another one about as much as this city needs another CREPE Myrtle. I think I will pass on it. This post was edited by GreatPlains1 on Sun, Sep 8, 13 at 19:10

Tabby, You've kind of answered your own question. Nothing is dwarf if the spot you put it in is too small. And 'dwarf' is a relative term. Look at the space you actually have, then choose something that really only gets appropriately big. Note that what might be 2-4' in Florida might be 3-7' here in our zones. Or visa versa. I suggest you decide what shrub variety you like, or at least what color, do your research, then ask how others' have behaved in our zone. Anything will outgrow its spot if it's final, full size is too big for it in the first place. The good news is that crape myrtles are pretty simple to move, particuarly if it's a dwarf variety. They sulk and play dead, but they're just drama queeens and will be back in full leaf quickly. Christine