Maxmillion, the best bet is to start by making a cheat sheet. List every other measurement that a full tile (and grout joint) falls on. (what's called coursing) For example, if the tile and grout joint falls exactly on 12", your list would go 24, 48, 72, 96, etc. Now, snap two lines, centered on the area, in each direction. If you don't know how to square off to get your second line, let me know, and I'll tell you how to do that. Once you've done that, take your cheat sheet, and look at the area, first from the main entrance into the area. Look and see which walls or stopping points are most obvious. Now, take your cheat sheet and measure to those points, and see how you will lay into those points. Those are the ones you want to try and make look good-- the most obvious in the room. Don't worry so much about under toe kicks, or where appliances will be, or the short end of cabinets, etc.. Worry more about the walls or where the tile will abut other flooring materials. Any chance you can take a pic of the area from the main entrance into it?

I think if you center you end up with two 10, two 5.5 and the 2 inch bullnose which will look kind of odd with each tile roughly half the width of the one next to it from the center out. Or you end up with a sliver. Have you considered tiling horizontally with the 13 across rather than the 10? I've completely rejected tile because it came in sizes I did not think laid out well on the wall I was working with

Thank you so much to everyone for your input! And that is some impressive cut @Creative Tile Eastern CT! I greatly appreciate the photoshopped image @groveraxle. THAT is how I would've preferred the tile to be laid -- much more centered. I have asked my tiler about all of the issues mentioned here: - Lippage: they have checked each tile to make sure there is a smooth transition. They mentioned that it is common for 12 x 24 tiles to occasionally be bowed but they sorted through the tile and picked out flatter pieces. - 2 piece tile around vent: they were also very frustrated that this had to be done because they had gone through 6 or 7 tiles trying to make that cut but the tile kept cracking. It was very surprising because it should have been a very easy cut and that is always what they do, but they believe this tile was fired at a very high temperature so this was the next best option. - Centering: they measured everything before cutting and laying down the tiles and felt this was the best option because otherwise there would have been a sliver at the top right corner of the vanity and back wall, to the left of the toilet. I'm not sure where is better to have the slivers or if by the vanity would even have been noticeable. Overall, I'm a bit frustrated with the tile not being "centered", but I do trust my tiler and am hopeful that the slivers on the left are not as noticeable once the door is back on. The grout is going in today (I'll double check on the gap around the baseboard) and I will post an updated picture! I am also doing the same tile in my master bath and will be much more attentive this time around! I plan to measure out and sketch a few scenarios to avoid slivers, especially since I will be walking on that floor daily!

I think a to scale floor plan is needed for sure on graph paer posted here in a comment DO NOT start another post. Are you moving your toilet ? That is an expensive thing to do so I need that floor plan. Waht tile are you doing for the shower > Waht is the size of the vanity. Foe me I would not have chosen a busy tile but now you have them we can hepl but honestly no way to do that without the plan show doorway and all the places the fixtures are going.