Again, thanks for the reply. Yes the sink has been purchased, I considered a single bowl sink and was veto'd by dear wife stating she wants two bowls (undermount), one 10" deep slightly oversize, second 8" deep undersize with a food waste disposal. She was very specific. Although I'm building my own cabinets, the sink manufacture specified a 36" cabinet and I'm going 35" outside dimension, that fact that I'm using 3/4" ply makes the inside cabinet size even smaller (33 1/2"). The fact that I'm building my own cabinets won't help allow for the amount of space needed for the dw to be beside the sink as I can't change the total 127" wall dimension, in other words, I can't fit a 24" dishwasher in a 22" space. Yes the dishwasher has been ordered. robotropolis I can't consider a 30" sink base, or even 24". since the sink has already been purchase and dear wife doesn't want to go smaller which will take away from what we have now. In other words, she dislikes smaller size sinks and or a single bowl. She needs the divider in the sink, one side takes care of the disposer (discards food after cutting and pealing) and the other side washes the vegetables etc. In other words, two people prep the food. The fridge has already been ordered and dear wife doesn't like how shallow the counter depth fridges are as well it would have to be very wide to be round 29 sq. ft and that would take away from counter space. She also got really turned off at the fact the counter depth was 35% more in price, so I'm recessing the standard size fridge (4") to give the look of counter depth. I can't move the stove further into the sitting area as it's already being moved 6" due to going from a 30" to 36" range. As for recessing that wall, it's not only load bearing but it's also an exterior wall so I'm very limited in my options. Wife wants both drawers and pullouts and I've accomplished that in our design. As mentioned earlier, she also really dislikes lazy susans. So far it seems the design remains the same and I've still got the same problem with the dw. I don't think there will be an acceptable solution. Thanks again for trying. This post was edited by Renosarefun on Fri, Mar 14, 14 at 15:57

As HandyMac points out, there are TONS of places where asbestos can hide. And then there is LEAD BASED PAINT! Yep. Lead. It was allowed in quantities up to 1978! And your house is around 20 years older than that. So....here we are with walls that are *possibly covered in lead based paint and ceiling/drywall mud/attic insulation that contains asbestos. Needless to say, the hardwood is not a very pressing matter at this time. First things first: asbestos and lead testing. Which means you need to know how and what to test. I suggest you take the fall to investigate (read HUNDREDS of documents from the State Health Department) what it is you are about to attempt. If, after all of that, you decide this is still a good idea, you will then need to test everything you can think of...and then a couple things more just to be sure. And have a plan for when the tests come back positive. You will want to investigate local remediation companies. Thankfully the company that deals with lead also deals with asbestos and mould. It should be a one-stop-shop for you. The flooring guy you hire will take care of the floor once all of that has taken place.

Speaking as a closet designer the short answer is "No" you don't need it. The long answer is "Yes" if you want it. How big is the closet? I assume your are working with the closet design company? If it is contractor or builder they won't consider the details of the space in terms of clothing width, shoe storage math, handbags. The Rule of Thumb is you need a 24" D Panel cabinet to doors to cover clothes. This takes up way space in the closet so do you have see if you have the room. And then you have to leave a space for the doors to open. And of course the big question is what is your budget? It's not loaded question but one that most people can't answer --because most closet systems are custom cut --so there is not a "set price". A 10 x 12" room with doors over the closet in the most classic white would start at 15 -20K --for slab doors not glass or fancy options. The photos the other person posted (which are gorgeous) are more than likely 25K - 35K + closets. The attached photos are form job being installed. Remember it's not a finished job and not professional (to seduce photos). The client opted for some 24" D cabinets with glass doors, some open sections. This a big space 15" Long on one wall, and the closet itself is a quasi "L" shape. This project is 30K

C Hogan "Are you mostly referring to the image from living room to kitchen." yes. when I look at the picture facing the kitchen, I can see between the chair, the side tables, and the lamp. the fact that you can see the back of the console table in the dining room, the basket under it, the pet bed, plus clutter, cables, etc. there is too much going on. we all have everyday clutter and that's ok. but in this picture, I can see it all at the same time and it's a bit much. a short wall will divide and calm it. (or a short cabinet or bookcase like auntthelma and Maureen suggested. then you can have some extra storage!) as for the view from the kitchen to the living room-- I don't think a solid knee wall will obstruct your view too much. like I said, if you're worried, hang a sheet (or cardboard or something) and see if it blocks things too much.