I wouldn't call this hybrid a "harlequin" type phalie. Harlequins are all together different with more "panda" type spotting. The white streaks are suspect. It maybe clonal mutation. That happens a lot with cheap clones. Usual color break virus, there will be areas of light AND DARK streaks in the petals. The leaves in Tobacco Mosaic or Ringspot viruses usually do manifest some leaf necrosis or streaking or yellowish patterns which become necrotic. But don't believe that any plant you buy from a nursery let alone a big box shop isn't virused. Virus can easily be spread by unsterilized cutting tools. Unsterilized pots (re-used) or insect vectors like slugs or snails, even mice. But humans are the biggest vector in transmitting the disease from one plant to another. When I cut my plant for any reason, I heat sterilize my shears with a propane torch for a a minute till it gets red hot. The heat from the tool will help cauterize the cut. OR use a single edge razor blade and then toss it away when through. You can reuse it if you again heat sterilize it with a blow torch. Dipping it in peroxide will do nothing. Clorox solution will work, as well as Physan solution. But it is very caustic to metal and if you are using good shears, it will rust it very quickly. Beware of people who say mericlones are virus free. They may not be. Cloning does not rid the plant of virus (the old days, there was thought that meristem cloning could remove virus if done correctly. It hasn't happend for orchids. Has helped free potatoes from mozaic virus.) Seed grown plants are usually virus free. But again, even at a relatively clean nursery, plants can become virused by neglectful growers. Buy from good sources. Carter & Holmes sells guaranteed virus free plants. Many other top nurseries do too. They routinely laboratory assay their plants for virus.

Another vote for Grey Wisp. It is such a great colour. Depending on your light source it can look more grey or more green. In either case it is lovely and I've used it several times in different rooms. It is a neutral and looks great with whites and taupes and blues. I wouldn't hesitate to use it with the flooring you are showing and the other items you've described. I have dark brown leather couches and it all goes together very well. Best way to test is get a small pot of paint and try it in different spots around the room, not just one small spot. And it looks great with white trim - my choice for white is BM Chantilly Lace. I think your flooring will look fabulous with those choices.

LVP has a vinyl core while SPC has a plastic composite or stone plastic composite, solid polymer core and WPC has a core typically consists of polyvinyl chloride, calcium carbonate, plasticizers, a foaming agent, and wood-like or wood materials such as wood flour. You can easily Google resources that outline the differences- they're very helpful. We chose Armstrong Empower SPC rigid core mostly because it was a builders option. I'd still choose a SPC or WPC over a basic LVP due to its ridigity and durability, as well as waterproofness.

I wanted to follow up on my own post with photos of how our floors came out because others may have this same issue. We ended up using Bona Nutmeg stain with a coat of Naturale sealer and two coats of Traffic HD Satin. Not sure how the photos will read but in person they look rich and warm without being orangey.