You can get a fine shower from a handheld. If I'm installing just one head in a shower, I recommend the user go with a handheld. They're more versatile, and there is no performance penalty. Understand that many manufacturers use the same shower head for fixed and handheld applications. Same head, just a different presentation. Example, here's the Grohe Relaxa Top4, which is what I have in my shower: Fixed: Handheld: I'll agree with raehelen too regarding the bench. I'll encourage you to eliminate the built-in bench and go with a movable wood stool or bench. Again, more versatile. And more comfortable to sit on. Two heads in a 65" shower is not excessive. Regarding the rainhead and pressure. You are correct, many people who use a rainhead as a daily shower head to shower an shampoo do indeed get frustrated with it. It's not really intended to function that way. But those who use a rainhead for the "rainhead experience", they love the rainhead. If your two heads will be used for functional showering, I'd recommend a fixed head on one wall and a handheld on the other wall. Make the handheld hose long enough so it can be used to wash down the walls. I probably install more Grohe than anything else. When you do change shower heads, there sometimes is a transition when going from what you're used to to what you now have. The new head isn't worse. It's simply different. For your plumbing layout, consider having the supply valve(s) located just inside the shower so you can turn the water on without having to step into the shower. The idea is to eliminate getting hit with a cold spray when you turn the shower on.

This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

You are in a pickle here I think. If the wooden window is getting wet or has gotten wet in the past the job of waterproofing it will be very hard. Properly waterproofing a window is tricky and requires a little care and some speciality waterproofing products. Cutting the window's jamb level with the existing backer board is not a hard thing to do and a good first step. I might suggest you install some kerdi band to the wooden sides of the window with Kerdi Fix as an adhesive. Before any waterproofing steps are taken the old window should be sanded and check for damage. A product called "Wood Petrifier" could be used to repair soft spots on your window. An oil based priner and good quality marine paint for the window. Ideally you can tile the inside portions of the window jamb and have a sloped window sill. As Stacey mentions pictures go a long way to providing options. What was used as a backer board in the shower? Was any waterproofing measure used in the wet zone? If you like email me your pictures and I can upload them for you if your having troubles doing so. jfrwhipple@gmail.com

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