I wouldn't suggest WD-40 inside a dishwasher. I'm not sure that is food safe. The cooking oil isn't going to stick around after the detergent hits it. Not sure vaseline will either. The only thing I can think of might be plumbers grease. Plumbers grease is not water soluble which you would know if you've ever put it on your finger and tried to wash it off ;-). I'm just not sure in those sorts of quantities how safe it is. An MSDS does not indicate it is much of a hazard. You can get this at any big box store. NOT the same as plumbers putty. Chances are the little wheels are worn at the axel. You may want to see if they can be replaced. Here is a link that might be useful: MSDS

yes. yes to the way it's described above. however, for newbies: it is good to describe the water that remains in the hose after each drain cycle as Not trapped in any way. The hose starts its life at a low-down drain point. Deciding at what point in the line it will go high (and far higher than its connection point to the sink drain) is the question. There will always be water left in the hose, at all times. This is desirable, normal, and necessary. You cannot have a DW hose empty of water. Standing water is always there. It's also good to spell out clearly for newbies that no DW hose needs to be "drained as much as possible". It's also good to spell out clearly for newbies not to fear "water in the line which may stink if not used regularly" --- and besides, all DW hoses have water in them at all times. So I tend to think there may not be much knowledge behind that post. The word "tailpiece" is another clue: it's the wrong term, as the tailpiece is the first piece of horizontal pipe downstream of the P trap (part of the P trap), and that is absolutely not where the DW connection is made. DWs are connected above the P trap. Hope this helps. Fear not. Whether your hose goes high early in the line, halfway, or at the end. Eight feet length of hose is a medium long hose. Ten and twelve feet length have been seen before. That is long. Call the DW manufacturer if you want their advice about this question. "How long can the hose be before it goes high?" "Is it better to loop high at the end or right away at the DW?" Different DW manufacturers give different answers. There may ultimately be determined in this forum a "correct way to go" but I wouldn't wait for any group consensus or decision on anything called correctness. In any case, as mentioned above, holes are easy to cut, will not be seen and will not interfere with anything. There is space for the hose. It does no harm being there. You can choose the route it shall take. h.t.h.

"I'd bring a drain up to the dw from the basement. To me, you are both planning on the dishwasher and the hoses never needing to be replaced and that simply isn't true." The problem becomes the need for an 'indirect waste' for the DW than, and the possibility of water overflowing the waste if the line gets blocked for any reason. There is a reason air gaps are placed near the sink. If the outlet from the air gap clogs, the waste water is going to come flowing out of the air gap.

Hi Suzi B That hose cannot be cut. The ends are attached to the corrugated tubing and (unless I have different tubing) you can't shorten the hose. What is the problem with those loops / sags? Do they prevent water from emptying? Do they cause water to drain back? I don't see that the hose is causing any functional issue. Not having a loop or sag will make it more orderly... but functionally doesn't change anything. Odor is caused by bacteria. Bacteria lives where there is food (bacteria food). You are going to find "stuff" inside your dishwasher - probably in a screen. It's possible that a check valve on the drain line isn't functioning and allowing some of the drain water to flow back in at the end of a cycle... but changing the hose won't fix that.