LG's WM3987 is the only full-size (27"w) combo W/D sold in the U.S.; fortunately it's a good one, (4.2 cu.ft. capacity, 1200 RPM spin, heats water up to 158F, has separate prewash/main wash/fabric softener/bleach dispensers). Several manufacturers sell shallower 24"w washer/dryers, but LG's WM3455 is probably the best, although it's rather pricey. It has 2.7 cu.ft. capacity, 1300 rpm spin, heats water to 158F, though lacks a separate bleach compartment. Looks to have a big door opening for a compact washer, though I haven't seen one IRL. Both of these run on 120V/15A, which means slow water heating and even slower drying, but also that it will plug into your apartment's nearby outlet if it isn't wired for 240V and may be advantageous if you're not allowed to add a 240V circuit. Fagor's FAS 3612 is a considerably less expensive choice, and faster because it runs on 240v power. Asko seems to have dropped their combo W/D, and the Eurotech clone thereof isn't sold anymore either. These had a poor rep for reliability anyway; they were made by a different branch of the company than other Asko laundry machines. Avoid anything that doesn't heat the wash water.

Do you want a compact 24 inches or a standard 27 in machine? My candidate for the compact is the Electrolux, bu.t the =matching dryer is a condenser no vent dryer. You can use just about any size 4 cu ft. I like the LGs, but the Whirlpools are OK too. I would avoid GE, Samsung and Kenmore (now up for sale). Samsung poor construction and GE poor customer service and spotty construction on some models. Good Hunting. Remember FL are not intuitive to use. There is a learning curve as well as maintenance required. Some teens may need follow up to remember to leave the door open and not overuse detergent and fabric softener.

I'd personally buy a LG over a Whirlpool or Maytag for one major reason...RINSING! Whirlpool/Maytag models do not spin between rinses during the normal cycle. My mom has a Whirlpool and the only way to get laundry out of it without a sticky/filmy feel is to always run an extra rinse cycle and use the heavy duty cycle which spins between washes and all rinses. My MIL has a LG WM4370HKA and it is a fabulous washer with many cycle options. On top of that, it's an excellent rinser, fast and very quiet.

There are no "pumps" involved in water dripping into the tub. There's a hot and cold water valve, each replaceable separately. The valves don't pump anything, they simply open or close to allow the incoming hot and/or cold water to flow or not. Either one can wear and fail to close fully, or get clogged with a bit of debris (such as sand/grit) in the water supply and fail to close fully. Shutting off the supply faucets when done using the machine will prevent the dripping ... although the suspect valve(s) may get worse and the dripping may increase to a more substantial flow. A squeak when filling could be the main motor/basket bearing (the basket rotates at 25 RPM while filling, but also much faster during spin) ... or bearings going bad on the drain/recirculation pump, which runs for several mins during the Eco Active period at the start of all cycles except Perm Press, and of course also runs during drain and spin periods. A failed auto-dry sensor won't have any affect on how long a load takes to dry on Timed. The heat and airflow operates exactly the same on both Auto and Timed ... the difference is the sensor controls the movement of the timer on Auto. The dryer has two heating elements, perhaps one of them has failed which reduces the heat input and that *will* result in a longer drying time.